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Châteauneuf-du-Pape New Releases: Welcome to the Pleasuredome (Jun 2023)

Made with the usual blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, Cinsaut and other permitted varieties, the 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape checks in at 15.5% alcohol. It bursts with pungent aromas of red cherry, raspberry, strawberry, blueberry, black plum, thyme, black pepper and is distinctively spicy. Full-bodied and expressive, wrapped in an intricate web of velvety…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Village is mostly from Les Seuvrées, aged half in 600-liter and half in 225-liter barrels, and has a fragrant bouquet of blackberry, briar and light chalky aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit and quite saline in the mouth, with plenty of energy on the refined finish, which really benefits…

Power and Energy: The 2018 and 2017 Northern Rhônes (Apr 2020)

Deep, glass-staining ruby. Deep-pitched aromas of cherry liqueur, blackberry, fruitcake and incense on the highly perfumed nose. Stains the palate with vibrant black and blue fruit liqueur, allspice and violet pastille flavors, enlivened by a smoky mineral nuance that builds with aeration. Shows a suave blend of richness and vivacity, and no rough edges. Spicy…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from Vougeraie’s oldest vines (104 years of age, and the source for their sélection massale). It has an attractive bouquet, one that might dupe you into thinking there is some whole-bunch addition – but there is none! It’s just naturally earthy with potent autumn woodland scents. The…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Saturated ruby. An amazingly complex array of red and blue fruit preserve, spice and floral scents is accompanied by suggestions of incense, pipe tobacco, coconut and candied licorice. Utterly stains the palate with impressively concentrated yet lively, smoke- and spice-laced cherry compote, blueberry, fruitcake and violet pastille flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity….

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has an earthy nose compared to its peers, the fruit profile more introspective with subtle marine scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannin matched with a silver bead of acidity. Backward and broody, I was not the only person at this tasting alarmed by…