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Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

Things go up a notch or two with the 2010 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, which appears to hover on the palate with the grace of a ballerina. The Bienvenues is all about weightless elegance and implied structure, but it is all there in the glass. At times a bit intellectual, the Bienvenues is nevertheless immensely appealing. Layers of…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(bottled three weeks prior to my visit): Bright yellow. Subdued aromas of white peach, pineapple and white flowers lifted by spicy clove oil. At once elegant and penetrating, showing superb depth and building energy to its bracing citrus-dominated flavors. Nothing exotic about this beauty. Really leaves the taste buds vibrating. A great showing for this…

2004 and 2003 White Burgundies (Sep 2005)

(the highest in alcohol of these ’03s, at 13.4%; from 50-year-old vines) Sappy orange aroma. Sweet and tactile, with intense, layered fruit flavors of orange and tangerine sorbet. As creamy as this is, it also finishes with very good grip.

Argentina Reaches New Heights (Sep 2019)

Bright, dark red-ruby. Wild, musky scents and flavors of black raspberry, black pepper, olive tapenade, licorice and rocky salinity. Plush, savory and seamless; a mouthcoating Malbec-based blend with superb depth and palate presence. As concentrated as this wine is, it’s medium-bodied in the style of this cooler year but also remarkably nuanced and harmonious from…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2010 Brut Coeur de Cuvée remains one of the great surprises of this generally uneven vintage. Rich and explosive in the glass, the 2010 possesses stunning richness and precision from the very first taste. Lemon confit, exotic flowers, spice and tropical fruits build into a dizzying crescendo of aromas, flavors and textures. What a…

Focus on California’s Central Coast (Sep 2006)

(botrytized roussanne) Deep golden bronze color. Bottomless aromas of dried apricot, orange peel, honey and toffee. Incredibly viscous and high-toned in the mouth, with superb acids to frame the orange peel and honey flavors. A distinctly saline character adds complexity. This has extraordinary TBA-weight thickness and concentration and an exhilarating sugar/acid spine. This goes on…