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2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(an assemblage of four lieux-dits): Lemon and a light lactic note on the nose. Fat and soft, with modest cut to its flavors of pear, peach and yellow flowers. Offers nice fruit for early drinking. Incidentally, Alix de Montille normally finds Chassagne wines a bit fat and soft for her taste (she likes white Burgundies…

Vertical Tasting of Château Trotanoy (Mar 2012)

(90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc; 12.7% alcohol): Rather evolved brick-red color. Open-knit, expressive aromas of red cherry, strawberry jam, sweet herbs, faded flowers and leather. Large-scaled and creamy on entry, with a low-acid mouthfeel, but not quite unctuous or heavy, displaying a restrained sweetness to its explosive red and dark fruit and faded violet…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium red. Raspberry, iron, coffee and truffle on the nose, along with an intriguing autumnal quality. At once silky and vinous, with slightly edgy acidity and noteworthy class. Finishes firmly tannic and extremely long, with a slightly bitter edge. 92. My second bottle was distinctly stronger: Bright full red. A coulis of raspberry and…

Vertical Tasting of Château Trotanoy (Mar 2012)

95% merlot and 5% cabernet franc): Deep, saturated red. Highly perfumed nose of black plum, lavender, cedar, chocolate and Oriental spices. Enters sweet, round and broad, then turns a bit tougher, with hints of earth and game complicating bright cassis and mocha flavors. There is an amazing freshness to this wine that helps extend the…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby-red. Liqueur-like aromas of kirsch, blueberry, truffle and dark chocolate. Sweet, chewy and impressively concentrated, with terrific grip. But this extremely young and powerful Trotanoy is still a bit disjointed today, presenting liqueur-like southern flavors as well as a medicinal component. Finishes long and firm, with terrific grip. Not quite as stylish as the…

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2019 Barolo Paiagallo is a gorgeous wine from Giovanni Canonica. Kirsch, orange peel, cinnamon, cedar and new leather take on an exotic quality in a deep Barolo that marries a super-ripe profile with classic structure. The 2019 is a bit wild. Candied fruit lends a racy quality, but the tannins are decidedly forbidding. With…