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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full ruby-red. Complex, enticing aromas of black raspberry, licorice, minerals, bitter chocolate, lead pencil and pungent cedar; just this side of exotic. Wonderfully silky, sweet and thick, with a powerful minerality framing the currant, graphite and spice flavors. This boasts superb inner-mouth energy and great length, with the full, ripe tannins totally enrobed by…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet les Folatières 1er Cru has an expressive bouquet with green apple, wet limestone and light kiwi fruit scents. This is nicely focused and has more energy than the Pucelles. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite poised and harmonious towards the finish that needs more mineralité. Maybe…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur 1er Cru has an open, leafy bouquet, a little stemmy but charming, with wilted rose petal scents. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, and fresh though a bit rustic. Grippy toward the finish, displaying an attractive spiciness. Rough around the edges, relatively evolved, but still pleasing. Tasted blind at…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Ségla was tasted under two different closures. The first under cork, offers blackberry, briary and touches of violet on the quintessential Margaux nose that gains intensity with aeration. Very impressive. The palate is medium-bodied with fine boned tannins, superb depth and body with an energetic, very focused finish that leaves a longer spicy…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Deep ruby-red. Very dark aromas of cassis, blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Ripe, juicy and fresh, with lovely violet lift to the dark berry flavors. Finishes with ripe, dusty tannins and lingering black fruit flavors. Not the last word in complexity but unusually rich and floral in 2005. Wait until 2012.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2005 Batailley is dark in hue with little aging on the rim. The nose is backward, tight and almost “moody”, piqued that it did not undergo a three- to four-hour decant. Firm tannins frame the palate. The oak may not be as assimilated as the best 2005s. Dark chocolate and espresso hints develop with…