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1999 Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2002)

(bottled shortly before my tasting) Explosive aromas of apricot,peach, minerals, creme caramel, grilled nuts and spices, along with cooler hints of licorice and menthol. Thick, sweet and chewy with extract; an impressively mouthfilling wine with lovely framing acidity. Characteristically big and peachy. Finishes spicy, shapely and very long. The class of the tasting.

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1982 Petrus is consistent with my previous notes. This has a lovely bouquet, perhaps a little purer than the bottle from February 2018 with just joyful black cherries, black truffle and cedar aromas, more red fruit developing with aeration. I appreciate the brightness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, moderate in terms of…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

The bottle in the blind flight appeared to have a healthy cork but was disappointing, with aromas of mocha and menthol; a penetrating middle palate with good but not outstanding richness; hints of herbs and mushroom; and substantial, slightly drying tannins. The second bottle was better but still not up to the reputation of this…

2005 Tuscany – Ten Years Later (Dec 2015)

The 2005 Sassicaia is in a gorgeous spot right now. A super-classic Cabernet Sauvignon bouquet reveals striking nuance as layers of dark fruit begin to unfold on the palate. Smoke, game, licorice, tobacco and menthol add the final shades of nuance. The 2005 doesn’t appear to be built for the long haul, but it is…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good bright ruby. Wild aromas and flavors of blackberry, coffee, mocha, chocolate and game. Sweet, dense and lush but with plenty of acidity giving the wine shape and structure. Quite concentrated for 2004: offers a very broad mouth feel without coming across as heavy. Finishes with horizontal, toothcoating tannins. An impressive showing.

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2002 Dom Pérignon Rosé is a tremendous example of this vintage at its very best. A Champagne of vertical thrust and intensity, the 2002 is rich, opulent and hedonistic from the very first taste. Readers should expect a Rosé built on a huge core of fruit. Rose petal, passion fruit and exotic flowers add…