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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1979 Yquem came from a small cache of half-bottles I acquired for sixpence many moons ago. It is a pretty decent Sauternes for the vintage, featuring plenty of rich apricot and quince on the nose along with emerging hints of Barsac-like barley sugar. The palate has perhaps not aged quite as well, displaying sharp…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1988 Yquem is a vintage that I have drunk with enormous pleasure on numerous occasions. This last bottle was the perfect ending to a horizontal of 1988 Roumier wines at Noizé. It was a late harvest that lasted until All Saints Day (1 November). A total of 6 tries were necessary through the vineyard,…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet La Grande Montagne 1er Cru is clearly a step up from the Village Cru, offering attractive, mineral-rich citrus fruit scents that pick up orange pith and tangerine aromas in the glass. The palate is well balanced with impressive weight and tension, a subtle spicy note on the back palate and upfront orange…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1982 Cos d’Estournel is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. I have always fallen for the aromatics of this 1982: roasted chestnut and a touch of aniseed that combines effortlessly with the melted red berry fruit, touches of tar developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, perhaps not…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium red. Spicy aromas of redcurrant, strawberry and plum. Ripe, lush and gentle, with a mineral character contributing to the wine impression of structure and leavening the wine’s sweetness. Very long, ripely tannic finish shows slightly elevated alcohol but comes across as firm nonetheless. (A second sample showed aromas of currant, tobacco, coconut and…

The Wines That Shaped My Life (Mar 2022)

The 1983 Pichon Comtesse de Lalande is now fully mature and expressive. Pretty red berry fruit mingles with graphite and cigar box. This bottle shows a little camphor with aeration. The palate is supremely well balanced, less powerful than a few years ago, harmonious and smooth, unpretentious and quintessentially Pauillac with its pencil shaving-tinged, elegant…