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Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1990 Pichon-Baron is a sensational wine that must have had the First Growth rattled when it was released. At 28 years old, it is still reveling in its precocious growing season. The multidimensional bouquet features blackberry, graphite, cedar and mint flanked by iodine and warm gravel on a summer day. Wow! The palate is…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. Nose at once subtle and flamboyant, with slightly roasted aromas of currant, cedar, lead pencil and minerals. Large-scaled, sweet and rich, with utterly primary fruit suggesting a long future ahead of it. Tasted next to the ’89, this was a much more massive and somewhat softer wine. Very long on the finish,…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1985 Latour comes from a rather “middling” period for the First Growth. It is a wine that I have tasted a dozen times or so and never come away impressed. The nose is fully mature with tertiary, smoky, leathery black fruit that does not exactly overwhelm with sophistication. The palate is medium-bodied, with lithe…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(this is 100% from Puligny-Montrachet side as of 2011, as Boudot lost his Chassagne-Montrachet fruit): Pale, bright yellow. Musky, ripe but reticent nose hints at stone fruits and crushed stone. In a rather muscular, powerful style, with terrific punch and saline minerality to its peach and crushed stone flavors. Finishes very long, dry and savory….

The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

Gently spiced notes open into lemon oil and subtle yellow stone fruits in the 2011 Batard-Montrachet. The style is surprisingly weightless for Batard, in fact, this is one of the more refined, introspective 2011 Batards I tasted. The long, persistent finish along is striking. There is no shortage of nuance or finesse in this exceptional…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2006 Figeac is a vintage that I have appreciated for some time, though this might be its best showing. Well-defined and vibrant on the nose, it is quite precise with expressive Cabernet Franc, touches of freshly-rolled tobacco and sage infusing the brambly red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, displaying a discrete…