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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a little more amplitude compared to the Clavaillon, scents of Granny Smith apples and dewy meadow on a cold morning. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little more weight and girth than the Clavaillon, not to mention a touch more salinity…

1997 and 1996 White Burgundies (Sep 1998)

Green-tinged color of the vintage. Deeper-pitched aromas of nut oil and honey; less fruity than the village wines. Fatter and sweeter in the mouth, with good flesh to buffer the acidity of the vintage. Quite full for this wine. Very long, adamantly dry finish dominated by pineapple.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Bright yellow. Very ripe aromas of peach and pineapple accented by minerals. Fat and full but with lovely acid cut to the flavors of pineapple, stone fruits and grilled nuts; fresher than the Meursault but not quite as brisk as it was from barrel a year earlier. Finishes with a suggestion of phenolic dryness and…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(only modest crop losses to frost and mildew here): Tight nose offers scents of mirabelle, grapefruit and anise. This, too, conveys an impression of creaminess, but is more concentrated than the Bourgogne Blanc in spite of the closer-to-normal vine yields here. Finishes with a firm edge that calls for a year or two of patience.

Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

The 2010 Chevalier-Montrachet comes across as quite subtle at this stage. Today it appears to lack some mid-palate depth and concentration, but that may come as the wine fleshes out with further time in bottle. Even though it is quite beautiful from a textural standpoint, the Chevalier is the least expressive of the grand crus….

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(bottled two weeks before my tasting): Bright pale yellow. Very pure, chalky aromas of lemon, lime, white flowers and iodine. Boasts outstanding tension and building intensity to its powerful lemon peel, pineapple and crushed stone flavors. Rare precision and inner-mouth perfume here. Saturates every square millimeter of the palate yet finishes with an impression of…