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Quinta do Noval: Recent Vintages 2011-2020 (Nov 2022)

The 2014 Vintage Port is certainly the most backward of Noval’s recent vintages, notes of black fruit, orange rind, sage, flecks of powdered dark chocolate and white pepper. The palate is ripe and viscous on the entry, tightly-knit and probably not as precise as subsequent vintages, just missing a bit of flair towards the finish….

2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru is a pretty big step up in this range, both in terms of depth, power and energy. Here the flavors are dark, while there is quite a bit of tannin lurking beneath. Black cherry, graphite, leather, smoke, spice and menthol infuse the 2017 with tons of virile, somber character. Readers…

Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked at 41hl/ha on September 12 and bottled on May 21 and 23, 2019. Given 10–15 minutes to open, it is clearly richer on the nose compared to its petit frère, revealing hints of kirsch, red currant and orange pith and subtle loamy aromas. The palate is medium-bodied,…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Yquem has a potent nose with yellow plum, tangerine, peach and honey, exuberant and with plenty of botrytis. There is a real presence in this wine. The palate is well balanced with an unctuous entry and a keen thread of acidity, effervescent with blood orange, white peaches and pineapple toward the finish. Very…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 d’Yquem is a wine of restraint above all else. Candied lemon, orange peel, apricot jam, graphite and almond are some of the many threads in a rich fabric that envelops all the senses. A wine of contrasts, the 2014 is at times delicate, while in other moments it is more powerful. Although striking,…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Trotanoy is a vintage that I tasted regularly in its youth, but had not encountered for five years. It has a very appealing nose of loamy earth/mulch-infused tarry black fruit, touches of mint coming through with aeration. The medium-bodied palate delivers a mixture of red and black fruit, a liberal dash of cracked…