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Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1997 Climens is a wine that I have tasted three of four times, but it has never convinced me that it is a top-drawer offering. It has quite a powerful, rather mushroom-like bouquet with apricot and dried honey, though I would have liked a little more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied though never really…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Opaque ruby. Exotic aroma of raspberry preserves, cherry pie, Asian spices and garrigue expands with air and picks up a deeper cherry quality. Spicy, mineral-driven red and dark berry flavors are impressively lithe and precise, with silky tannins lending support. This very fresh wine finishes with excellent clarity and spicy persistence.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

Managing Director Véronique Dausse opened a 1995 Phélan Ségur on the first day of my visit during en primeur, and it turned out to be a very pleasant surprise since this is not regarded as a particularly auspicious decade for the estate. Showing modest bricking on the rim, the bouquet has a little more pep…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Good medium color. Austere aromas of dark berries and iodine. Ripe bitter cherry fruit; decent richness and texture. Finishes with tongue-coating tannins and modest length.

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

Though I have tasted dozens of Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande vintages, the 1964 is one that has escaped my palate…until now. It is not a renowned vintage for the Left Bank due to October rains, and this is borne out in this bottle. It’s pretty perfumed with iodine and blackberry. Part of me thinks this…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pichon-Baron has a very intense bouquet with blackberry, blueberry, touches of violet and a whiff of the estuary (presumably the Gironde). This is very concentrated and like the 2010 Pichon-Lalande, it suggests that its secondary aromas will be worth waiting for. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, plenty of red and black…