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Vertical Tasting of Château Trotanoy (Mar 2012)

(95% merlot and 5% cabernet franc; 3.71 pH; IPT 79; 13.3% alcohol): Bright ruby-red. Ripe but still inexpressive on the nose, offering delicate aromas of red fruits, violet, crushed stone, menthol and wild herbs. Silky and round on entry, then rich and suave in the mid-palate, with a hint of smoky minerality nicely complementing the…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Red-ruby. Vibrant aromas of cherry, rose petal and minerals. Suave and minerally in the mouth, with excellent intensity of flavor and firm spine. A bit youthfully withdrawn in the middle palate but opens out impressively on the back half, finishing with serious but fine tannins and terrific breadth and length. Very subtle Pomerol, in need…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Saint-Aubin Les Frionnes 1er Cru retains the estuarine scents that I picked out from barrel but they have shut down since bottling. Quite viscous on the palate with praline and lemon curd. The tropical fruit in this Frionnes that was hidden last year, have come to the fore, rendering it almost Chenin Blanc-like.

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru offers a super-intriguing mix of floral notes, citrus, almond, mint and white pepper. Lifted and precise with striking translucency, the Montée is really expressive today. Because of the lower yields in this vintage, 2017 was done entirely in oak. It is unquestionably a very fine wine, but…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pape Clément Blanc is quite pretty and understated. Lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers, mint and chamomile all grace this wonderfully expressive dry white from proprietor Bernard Magrez. As with all of these wines, the Blanc is done in a less opulent style than in the past, an approach that works beautifully here.

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pape-Clément Blanc offers attractive scents of white flower, honeysuckle, tangerine and yellow plum that gently gains intensity with aeration. The palate is well balanced on the entry, displaying a waxy texture, but then it loses a little tension toward the finish. Nutty and smoky, quite forward and just missing the energy conveyed by…