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2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett has a very open but tender nose: ripe greengage is bright and edged with a whisper of chervil. The sweetness on the palate kicks in first, but lightness takes over with serene lemon freshness and fine, almost earthy stone. Ripe greengage, delineated by lemon, soaks up that initial sugar and…

2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Scharzhof was harvested in Saarburg, Wiltingen and Oberemmel and fermented spontaneously, half in stainless steel, half in Fuder. The nose has subtle yeast notes but comes across as very fresh, with hints of green apple and lemon and a slightly flinty flicker. The palate is exquisitely light and gently sweet. Herbal notions…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru includes three-quarters whole cluster fruit. It has a beautifully-defined bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, wilted rose petals, incredibly precise and focused. The palate has an unerring symmetry, a fine bead of acidity, precise and crisp, the whole bunch seamlessly integrated with an assiduous sprinkling of…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a mineral-driven bouquet with dark berry fruit, sous-bois and just a touch of dessicated orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine acidity. Is it the most complex Lavaux? Maybe not, though it has an attractive juiciness mixed with sapidity that keeps you coming…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is so much more expressive on the nose compared to the Chambertin (which is a cooler terroir due to the clay, its location next to the combe and adjacent to the frost). Shimmering red fruit, crushed stone, orange pith and pressed iris petals make up the bouquet. You could…

A Beautiful Stay: Beau-Séjour Bécot 1970-2015 (Apr 2018)

The 1998 Beau-Séjour Bécot was picked between 29 September and 5 October. The colour is more youthful than either the 1995 or 1996 and the nose certainly more vibrant: cranberry and strawberry fruit, fine purity and well integrated oak. There is a sense of purpose about these aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin,…