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Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1995 Château Margaux is a vintage perhaps unfairly over-shadowed by the imperious 1996. That is unfair because the late Paul Pontallier crafted a great First Growth this year. It has a very impressive, quintessential Margaux bouquet that is undimmed after 23 years: black fruit, graphite, crushed violets and a touch of tobacco. If anything…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Excellent deep ruby color. Very complex aromas of blackcurrant, wild plum, violets, minerals, tar and smoky oak. Dense and supple, with great sweetness of fruit. Doesn’t have quite the sheer power of the ’96, but the flavors build and build. Substantial tannins are chewier than those of the ’96 but hit the palate later. 1986…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2002)

(from a blend of 11- and 36-year-old vines) Full ruby-red. Restrained but pure aromas of currant, plum, menthol and roasted meat. Supple, rich and seamless; less sweet and accessible today than the Costa Russi but already shows superb generosity of texture. Finishes with sweet, building tannins and excellent length. This may well shut down in…

Cellar Favorite: 2008 Galardi Terra di Lavoro Roccamonfina Rosso (Aug 2021)

I purchased the 2008 Terra di Lavoro upon release for a price that seems amazing for what’s in the bottle today, and then buried it deep in my cellar. In 2018, I opened the first of my six-pack, and I decided that the wine still needed a little more time. Well, that time is now,…

The Noble Wines of Southern Italy (Aug 2010)

Galardi’s 2008 Terra di Lavoro is a legend in the making. It is a fabulously ripe, rich and seductive wine endowed with beautifully articulated dark plums, ash, leather, licorice, all of which meld together in an explosive, utterly thrilling display of class and elegance. Clean, mineral notes frame the eternal finish. Today the 2008 is…

Barbaresco’s Soaring 2020s & 2021s (Oct 2023)

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is a pretty tightly wound wine, certainly moreso than is typically the case for this Barbaresco, which is often much more engaging in the early going. Dried herbs, tobacco, cedar and earthiness lend notable savory nuance in this decidedly nervy, somber Pora. There’s good fruit intensity and plenty of character…