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Power and Energy: The 2018 and 2017 Northern Rhônes (Apr 2020)

Deep, glass-staining ruby. Deep-pitched aromas of cherry liqueur, blackberry, fruitcake and incense on the highly perfumed nose. Stains the palate with vibrant black and blue fruit liqueur, allspice and violet pastille flavors, enlivened by a smoky mineral nuance that builds with aeration. Shows a suave blend of richness and vivacity, and no rough edges. Spicy…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin-Chambertin les Mazoyères Grand Cru comes from Vougeraie’s oldest vines (104 years of age, and the source for their sélection massale). It has an attractive bouquet, one that might dupe you into thinking there is some whole-bunch addition – but there is none! It’s just naturally earthy with potent autumn woodland scents. The…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Saturated ruby. An amazingly complex array of red and blue fruit preserve, spice and floral scents is accompanied by suggestions of incense, pipe tobacco, coconut and candied licorice. Utterly stains the palate with impressively concentrated yet lively, smoke- and spice-laced cherry compote, blueberry, fruitcake and violet pastille flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity….

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has an earthy nose compared to its peers, the fruit profile more introspective with subtle marine scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannin matched with a silver bead of acidity. Backward and broody, I was not the only person at this tasting alarmed by…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(Jadot’s vines in the lower part of the clos produced a normal yield in 2016): Bright, dark red. Medicinal red cherry, licorice, herbs and a strong element of spicy oak on the nose. Concentrated, savory and flavorful, communicating an impression of medicinal reserve. A classic, rather old-fashioned, masculine style of Clos Vougeot but not rustic…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Domaine de Chevalier remains a mystery. In multiple tastings I have found the 2017 to be soft and supple, but also lacking complexity and the pedigree that make the finest vintages so exciting. There is good energy at the outset, but then the wine narrows on the mid-palate and finish. Tasted three times.