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Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2014)

Saturated ruby. Wild, intensely aromatic bouquet evokes ripe dark berries, incense, smoky Indian spices and vanilla, with a seductive floral quality emerging with aeration. Sweet and seamless on the palate, offering intense blackberry and boysenberry flavors, a touch of anise and building spiciness. Velvety and full but lively too, finishing with excellent power and smooth,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Giscours (rebottled in 2013) is showing modest bricking on the rim. The nose takes time to open and eventually offers brown spices, leather and tobacco. This is fully mature, a little rustic compared to other bottles, yet there remains adequate freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins with fine depth. Perplexingly, the…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red. Slightly roasted red fruits, currant and spice cake on the nose. Fat, full and sweet but could use a bit more shape. Has plenty of extract, though, and builds nicely toward the back. Finishes with dusty tannins and noteworthy sweetness of fruit.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande dazzles from the very first taste. A heady concoction of inky dark fruit, graphite, new leather, licorice, lavender, spice and grilled herbs soars out of the glass. The 2018 is rich and expansive yet retains a super-classic vertical feel. Plush, silky tannins add to its immeasurable pedigree. I would…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pichon-Lalande was given an hour’s decant and then observed over the next 24 hours. It has clearly retained the showstopping nose that I encountered from barrel, those same “gentle waves" of black cherries and blueberry, incense and violets lending it a Margaux-like allure. The palate is vibrant and full of tension from the…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion is a pretty wine, but it also remains a bit lacking in both depth and overall structure. In many vintages, Clarence can be a sort of mini Haut-Brion, but the 2017 is decidedly light. Sweet floral, spice and tobacco notes open up nicely, but there is no getting past…