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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Sexy aromas of currant, chocolate and flowers, plus hints of cedar, smoky oak. Plump, lush and fine-grained, showing a remarkably seamless texture for a second wine. Very ripe flavors of currant, mocha, beefsteak tomato and chocolate turn a bit roasted in the glass. Finishes with a smooth dusting of tannins and ripe, chocolatey…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Latour shows similarly to the bottle earlier this year. To be honest, there is little difference between the aromatics on this and Les Forts de Latour, perhaps just some morels and yes, a touch of Brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, the mixture of red and black fruit mixed with plenty…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full medium ruby. Highly aromatic, expressive nose combines currant, espresso, saddle leather and roasted meat. Sweet, lush and smooth, but given definition by its vinosity. Not especially refined, but plummy and mouthfilling. Ripe tannins saturate the teeth and the sides of the mouth on the long finish.

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Musky aromas of plum, redcurrant, espresso, tobacco leaf and smoked meat. Silky on entry, then firm in the middle, with a slightly dry character to the plum flavor. A tad musky and wild but with no shortage of complexity. But the 2006 has more structure and body, says technical director Blanc.

The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)

The 1961 Château Margaux has been a disappointing wine and this is no different. The bouquet is decent enough but surely lacks the complexity and vigor of superior Margaux such as Palmer and Giscours. The palate is medium-bodied with strong tobacco and cedar notes, but it lacks the level of fruit to give body and…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, NY (Jul 2022)

Sadly, the 1961 Margaux is beset by strong notes of game and brett that dominate. There’s good depth for the 1961, but things never fully come together. I expected more.