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2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Very pale, bright, green-tinged yellow. High-pitched aromas of pineapple, peach pit and redcurrant are lively and pure. Silky, fine-grained and sweet, with harmonious acidity and penetrating chalky minerality giving the fresh orchard fruit flavors terrific precision. At once seamless and gripping, this impeccably balanced wine finishes with a subtle whiplash of flavor that leaves the…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has an aromatic bouquet of citrus fruit and mineral aromas infused with yellow flowers, along with beautifully integrated oak. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Perhaps it needs just a tad more energy and tension on the finish, but it is a class act…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(bottled eight days before my visit): Very pure aromas of peach, lemon cream and spices lifted by a floral topnote. More tightly wound than the Combettes but with terrific lemony cut giving the middle palate a sharply chiseled, airy feel. Very pure and clean on the back end, with brisk acidity extending the perfumed, floral…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2009 Calon Ségur offers powerful black fruit, melted road tar, tobacco and pencil shaving scents, here with a touch of wild mint that surfaces after 15-20 minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly grainy texture. This solid Saint-Estèphe is shaking off the baby fat of that vintage and is more reserved than the…

Alto Piemonte & Valtellina, Continued… (Sep 2020)

The 2016 Gattinara Vigna Valferana is every bit as impressive from bottle as it was from cask. Rich and resonant, the 2016 is so supremely beautiful as it opens up in the glass. It is a wine of real breadth and textural expansiveness. Rose petal, mint, sweet dried cherry, tar, anise and orange peel are…

Alto Piemonte & Valtellina, Continued… (Sep 2020)

Tasted next to the Valferana, the 2016 Gattinara Vigna Molsino is much more nervous in feel. Iron, dried herbs, sweet dried cherry, mint, crushed rocks, white pepper and earthy notes give the Molsino a good deal of aromatic complexity to match its intense, saline-infused minerality. Today, though, the tannins and acids are almost overpowering. Readers…