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Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Vieux Château Certan has a perfumed, floral bouquet of red fruit infused with violet and incense; hints of iodine and seaweed emerge with time. This is certainly very complex, bordering on profound. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and layers of red fruit laced with cedar and desiccated orange peel, leading to…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

I have been fortunate to follow the 2016 Vieux Château Certan almost from the beginning, starting with a tasting of several lots from barrel in early January 2017, in which Alexandre and Guillaume Thienpont showed me the wines in a sequence arranged by the year of planting of various parcels. Even then, it was clear,…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

Smoke, tobacco, incense and game meld into a core of black stone fruits as the 2013 Haut-Brion shows off its personality. Like most of the reds in this range, the 2013 really needs time in the glass to blossom. Violets, lavender and melted road tar develop over time in a striking, vivid wine endowed with…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

(50% merlot, 45.5% cabernet sauvignon and 4.5% cabernet franc; 26 h/h): Dark ruby. Deep, spicy aromas of blackcurrant, aromatic herbs and mint. On the palate, big, deep flavors of red berries and spicy blueberries are accented by sandalwood and aromatic herbs. Mounting tannins coat the palate dry, with the finish featuring underbrush, ink and licorice….

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Haut-Brion offers light loam and forest floor scents, missing its usual fruit intensity as you would expect, though it presents pressed flower and dry tobacco with further aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. Cohesive with a little more body than La Mission, this has a finely-tuned, pure finish with clove and…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

Once again, the 2005 Clos L’Eglise is fabulous. Deep, bold and luscious, the 2005 delivers the goods, and then some. Sweet red cherry fruit, plum, cedar, tobacco, mint, mocha and spice fill out the layers effortlessly. Even with all of its intensity, the 2005 retains terrific brightness and verve. What a pleasure it is to…