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New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2010)

The 1999 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, from magnum, is wonderfully rich and expansive, proving yet again jut how well suited the big bottle is to Champagne. Smoke, peaches, mint and flowers are just some of the nuances that flow from this textured kaleidoscopic Champagne. The wine continues to gain focus and breadth through to…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

Pale yellow-gold. Deep, pungent nose offers an array of orchard and citrus fruit qualities, along with notes of iodine, minerals and toasty lees. Chewy and impressively concentrated, with excellent clarity to its pear and orange flavors. The toasty quality gains strength with air and carries through an impressively long, spicy, floral finish. Very impressive, especially…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

Winemaker Eric Kohler recalled the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild as being born in a sad summer. Personally, I have liked this First Growth since I first tasted it in barrel. Now 20 years old, it is beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is clean and detailed, with black currant, raspberry, melted tar…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Bright, deep ruby-red. Ripe, deep aromas of currant, flowers, coconut and mint. Firm and tight, with excellent cut and precision; brisk flavors of bitter cherry, berry skin and minerals. A slightly dry-edged midweight that’s best today on the long, slow-building finish. Shows an intriguing late note of faded rose.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Mouton-Rothschild, which Philippe Dhalluin told me was harvested in one week, has a forward, showy bouquet with more upfront black fruit than the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild I tasted an hour earlier. Blackberry mixes with hints of star anise and light tobacco notes, conveying energy and fine delineation if not the profundity of the greatest…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full medium ruby. Currant, meat, mocha and grilled nuts on the nose. Lush, sweet and smooth, with just enough vinosity to maintain its balance. A vin de plaisir whose lovely fruit and sweet, harmonious tannins make it very easy to taste today (the chateau carried out a gentler, shorter extraction in ’99). But doesn’t have…