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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Dullish ruby-red. Full-blown, exotic aromas of plum jam, roasted meat and leather, with a suggestion of tropical chocolate. Big, plush and full; a seamless wine that avoids coming off as flat. Finishes with ripe tannins and a lingering flavor of chocolate. I underrated this wine in barrel. Unusually fleshy for Beychevelle, which is not a…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Dec 2016)

The 1981 Collection (Magnum) has begun to slowly enter a plateau of maturity marked by slightly oxidative, tertiary notes that give the wine its burnished, resonant personality. Open-knit and creamy on the palate, the 1981 is an ideal wine for current drinking, as it is not likely to improve much from here. Stone fruit, vanilla,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(a blend of 52% cabernet sauvignon, 42% merlot and 6% petit verdot) Ruby-red. Aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, leather, game and dark chocolate. Pliant and smooth, with a rather fine-grained texture for a young wine from this chateau. Doesn’t possess the definition or lift of the best 2004 St. Juliens, but has a solid…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)

The 1999 La Grande Année a is refined, elegant wine with pretty, exotic notes of apricots, peaches, honey, flowers, smoke and toasted oak. There is notable clarity and precision here, in a style that is generous and approachable. The 1999 La Grande Année is 63% Pinot Noir and 37% Chardonnay, of which 82% came from…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

(disgorged December, 2006) Pale straw. Vibrant, exotically perfumed bouquet evokes fresh pear and nectarine, with a wild spicecake quality adding complexity. Cinnamon-accented orchard fruit flavors are strikingly precise and palate-coating. Delivers outstanding concentration and finesse and finishes with superb persistence.

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

Philippe Dhalluin served the 1986 Mouton Rothschild to wrap up our vertical. The 1986 remains one of my favorite Moutons. A dark, powerful wine, the 1986 is endowed with a vertical sense of structure that is a marvel to behold. Dark stone fruit, smoke, graphite, mocha, soy and licorice are fused together in a marvelously…