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2014 Bordeaux: It Ain’t Over Till It’s Over (Apr 2015)

The 2014 Pétrus possesses remarkable density and power, with superb overall depth and an explosive sense of energy that is impossible to miss. Scents of violet, spice and rose petal open up in the glass before the fruit totally takes over. Broad and resonant throughout, Pétrus is one of the bigger, richer wines readers will…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1985 Petrus has long been the most disappointing wine of this decade and this bottle does nothing to alter that conviction. Showing modest bricking, perhaps slightly paler in colour than I recall, the bouquet does nothing much. Static and to use a word I previously used – staid, like a teenager loafing around. The…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(100% merlot; 14.2% alcohol; 3.8 pH; 40 ha/hl; a 65% selection; 50% new oak) Fully saturated ruby-red. Mindblowingly intense, utterly hedonistic nose redolent of sexy, superripe blueberry and blackcurrant complicated by sweet Oriental spices, cocoa and coffee. Then creamy-smooth and downright voluptuous, with superconcentrated blackberry, blueberry and plum flavors complemented by delicate smoke and flint…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Dark ruby. Ripe red cherry, cocoa, exotic herbs, soy sauce, sweet spices and a hint of licorice on the showy, opulent nose. At once fat and juicy, with firm-edged dark berry flavors contributing very good grip and backbone to softer, fleshier plum, black cherry, chocolate syrup and sexy Oriental spice flavors. Finishes juicy, minty and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Petrus is surprisingly backward on the nose compared directly with the 2009 Le Pin, demanding a lot of coaxing. Initially broody, it then begins to flourish with wild strawberry, cranberry, crushed stone and black truffle, all beautifully defined but very succinct. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins lending an almost cashmere texture….

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

I have not had good luck with the 2015 Petit-Village. The first sample was massively tannic and forbidding. A second bottle was marginally better. There, I saw a wine with good up-front appeal but not real depth or persistence to speak of. Needless to say, I liked the 2015 far better from barrel. If the…