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Cellar Favorite: Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva 1952-2015 (Oct 2019)

The 2015 Rioja Reserva, which comes mainly from Rioja Alavesa, has a tightly wound bouquet of broody black fruit, Cuban cigar and black olive. It is not intense, but it is very elegant. The medium-bodied palate is off-dry, marked by fine acidity and plenty of soy-tinged black fruit. With aeration, it develops more depth and…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

(a blend of Charmes and Mazoyeres) Good full red. Subtly complex nose melds musky strawberry, cherry, dried flowers and smoke. Offers more breadth and thrust than the Clos de la Roche, with very good life and minty lift to the flavors of red fruits, flowers and game. Finishes with substantial broad, dusty tannins and good…

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Bright medium red. Very ripe but brooding nose hints at raspberry, spices, underbrush and resiny oak. Quite structured and backward, but already offers complex hints of minerals, licorice and soil. Finishes firmly tannic and long. Closed, uncompromising wine that appears to call for at least five or six years of patience.

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Bright medium red. Very ripe but brooding nose hints at raspberry, spices, underbrush and resiny oak. Quite structured and backward, but already offers complex hints of minerals, licorice and soil. Finishes firmly tannic and long. Closed, uncompromising wine that appears to call for at least five or six years of patience.

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Deep red. Aromas of cassis, black cherry, roasted strawberry, licorice and woodsmoke. A bit disjointed today, with the wine herbal element clashing with its roasted, tarry oak. Like a few of these ’99s, this is not showing the texture and breadth it displayed a year ago from barrel, perhaps a result of filtration (some Faiveley…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru now includes 0.6 hectares of vine. There is a touch of reduction on the nose, though that does not disguise the intense blackcurrant and raspberry fruit, a touch of potpourri emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with candied orange peel on the entry, excellent structure and finely…