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Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Château d’Yquem at 20 years old: a legend? It certainly received much adulation on release. As a reminder, it was picked over five tries from September 18 to October 23 and has 150g/L of residual sugar. Limpid gold in color, as you would expect, it looks quite youthful for a Sauternes of this…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby. Redcurrant, leather and game on the expressive if slightly rustic nose. Sweet and concentrated but a bit youthfully aggressive, and not showing the refinement or definition of the 2006. Strong nutty oak component. Finishes with substantial tannins that are a bit richer and more fully buffered by the wine’s middle-palate material than those…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep red. Initially sauvage aromas of plum, leather, game and earth, with higher-pitched blueberry and blackberry emerging with aeration. Sweet, concentrated and densely packed, with a youthfully medicinal character to the dark fruit flavors. Finishes with firm, dusty tannins. Impressively constituted but seems less pure than it was from barrel the spring after the harvest….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Grand Puy-Lacoste has a clean and precise bouquet with graphite infused red berry fruit, woodland scents, fern and touches of autumn leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite bold and assertive with dried blood and ferrous notes infusing the red fruit towards the persistent finish. You could broach this now although…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Grand Puy Lacoste is one of the great vintages from this estate in the modern era. It storms from the glass with scents of blackberry, undergrowth, cedar and mint, retaining the classicism of GPL. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity. Very harmonious with a gorgeous, lithe, graphite…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good medium ruby. Ripe, slightly high-toned aromas and flavors of cassis and chocolate, lifted by cedar and minerals. Then more dark berries and minerals in the mouth, complicated by a candied violet nuance. Not particularly large-scaled in what is a generally exotic, very ripe vintage, but intensely flavored and very well delineated, offering an enticing…