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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Bright, medium red-ruby. Superripe, complex aromas of kirsch, musky espresso, fruity dark chocolate, spices and game. Wonderfully lush, sweet, dense and ripe; in fact, atypically large-scaled (this is 13.7% alcohol) and full for La Conseillante but perfectly framed by harmonious acidity. The light meaty quality is buried in dark fruits on the palate. The spreading,…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a wine from the château’s less brilliant period. In this tasting, it is dark, heavy and clumsy. All that said, the 2005 has aged relatively well, there is just not much complexity to speak of. Muted, unfocused aromatics and dull fruit are penalizing. It is truly remarkable to…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full red-ruby. Very ripe, musky aromas of black plum, currant, menthol, dark chocolate, mocha and meat; less pristine than the 2006 but rather youthfully subdued today. Then lush and fat but not overly sweet in the mouth, with a nice balance between ripe fruit and harmonious acidity. A full, broad wine that builds slowly…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Deep, shimmering violet. Expansive, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of cherry liqueur, cassis, coconut and pungent flowers show excellent clarity. Stains the palate with concentrated dark fruit and violet pastille flavors that are complemented by suggestions of mocha, smoked meat and exotic spices. Distinctly generous in character, but there”s also superb energy thanks to a core…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Château Margaux has always been one of the stars of the millennial vintage. A dozen or so bottles over the years, starting with my first encounter from bottle with the late Paul Pontallier, have never disappointed. Philippe Bascaule did not decant this bottle, although it does deserve an hour’s aeration before serving. Deep…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full ruby-red. Penetrating, highly perfumed aromas of sappy dark berries, violet and minerals; seems less oaky today than the ’01. Offers compelling mouthfilling concentration and perfume. A wine of great power and consistency, with a pungent minerality lingering on the palate-staining finish. This somehow doesn’t flag or grow narrower even after one swallows or spits….