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2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Raspberry, plum, licorice and mocha on the nose, plus suggestions of meat, leather and burning tobacco. Supple and smooth on entry, then a bit simple in the middle palate, with a slight mintiness emerging with aeration. This is less filled in than the promising 2006, with less verve and definition. Finishes broad but slightly…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Full red-ruby. Musky aromas of currant, graphite, tobacco leaf, menthol, herbs and smoke are sexed up by a captivating candied quality. Densely packed and chewy but suave, with good peppery, herbal lift to the very ripe dark berry and mineral flavors. Not the ripest vintage ever for this wine, but that’s not a bad thing…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(90% merlot with 10% cabernet franc; 26 hectoliters per hectare; 14.5% alcohol) Inky-purple. Very ripe blackcurrant aromas lifted by perfumed notes of sage and bay leaf. Then much lighter and more refined on the palate than the ripe nose indicates, with good energy to its black fruit, licorice, tar and pepper flavors. The finish is…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

(15% alcohol): Saturated dark ruby. High-toned aromas of cassis, black raspberry, bitter chocolate and crushed-rock minerality. Layered and powerful on the palate, but with highly concentrated cassis, black raspberry and dark chocolate flavors energized by pungent chalky minerality and strong acidity. One feels the 15% alcohol in the wine’s sheer size and chewy texture but…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the estate made 34 hectoliters per hectare as its vines in Bonnes-Mares escaped frost damage): Healthy medium red. Powerfully aromatic nose combines a sexy medicinal note with an inviting musky, fleshy quality that I did not find in any other of the estate’s ’16s. Robust, chewy and deep on the palate, offering mouthfilling flavors of…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Medium red-ruby. Roasted berries, musky espresso, tobacco leaf and a whiff of prune on the nose. Lush and supple, with more obvious sweetness than the 2005 but less shape and thrust. In a chunky style. My suspicion is that the 2005 will ultimately turn out to be a more refined and satisfying wine.