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Penfolds Collection 2023 (Jul 2023)

The richly endowed 2021 Shiraz Bin 798 RWT delivers in spades with intense and well-defined blackberry, tempered chocolate, black olive and bay leaf aromas. A dense, drying palate follows. Grippy tannins provide a muscular feel through to a heavy set finish. It’s a little adolescent right now and needs time to settle.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot and 15% petit verdot) Deep ruby. Enticing aromas of violet, red cherry and graphite. Creamy and soft on entry, then shows surprising backbone to the rather delicate red and black fruit flavors. Finishes long and smooth, with a tactile, almost sweet mouth feel that may not be…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 La Lagune is showing some brettanomyces on the nose, animally with saddle leather and maybe a little sweaty (picking up on the feral observation I made before). The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, slightly pinched black fruit with a touch bitter and hard finish. Hopefully bottle age will soften this wine. A…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

(60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 10% petit verdot): Deep, bright ruby-red. Sexy aromas of currant, underbrush, leather and toasty oak. Plush, seamless and sweet; full-bodied but not heavy. Pliant flavors of currant, plum and earth expand to fill the mouth. Finishes with broad, fine tannins and sneaky building length. Classic Old World claret from…

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

The 2013 Mouton Rothschild is delicate, pretty and nicely lifted throughout, with a Pinot-like purity to its fruit. A distinctly lithe Mouton, the 2013 should offer fine drinking over the next two decades, or so although it is certainly not a blockbuster. Bright red cherry, raspberry rose petal and blood orange are some of the…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

(89% cabernet sauvignon, 7% merlot and 4% cabernet franc): Dark red-ruby. Raspberry and blackberry aromas are complicated by floral red cherry and cocoa on the nose. Compellingly sweet and vibrant in the mouth, with a chewy underlying mineral character giving shape to the ripe red cherry flavors. Finishes pure and very long, with unusual depth…