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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Ausone has a rich, opulent, modern style bouquet with crème de cassis and blueberry aromas tinged with crushed violet. There is plenty of new oak here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a ton of blue and black fruit. It does not quite deliver the personality of its peers, although the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Deep, saturated ruby-red. Musky aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, coffee, violet, Christmas spices, minerals and exotic oak, complicated by graphite minerality. Boasts uncanny intensity, calcaire energy and power on the palate, but there’s also a deeply creamy texture brought by this superripe vintage. Boasts extraordinary inner-mouth aromatic character and finishes with great tannic spine….

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Cru, which is 100% de-stemmed, does not have quite the same complexity as the Les Reversées. Scents of dark plum and iodine emerge with time. The medium-bodied palate shows a grainy texture, very good depth and chalky tannin on the minerally finish. Fine, but not as charming or…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(55% merlot, 35% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon; 70% new oak) Medium-dark ruby-red. Spicy, perfumed aromas of superripe red cherry and plum lifted by a floral nuance. Sweet, supple and easygoing, with delicate red fruit flavors framed by harmonious acidity, which gives verve to the long, smooth finish.

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright ruby-red. Expressive aromas of black raspberry, cassis, licorice, caramel and smoky oak are complicated by leather and game nuances. Large-scaled, rich and sweet but with harmonious acidity giving shape to the broad black and blue fruit flavors. Finishes rich and long, with surprising lift and plush, sweet tannins that reach the incisors. This…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Canon-la-Gaffelière has quite a compact nose, backward and rather surly compared to its peers. It feels a little Left Bank in style with light pencil shaving aromas developing. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, a fine bead of acidity, nicely structured with a grippy, quite spicy and forthright finish that feels reassuringly…