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New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 5% cabernet franc) Deep, saturated ruby. The reluctant raspberry nose is followed by ultraripe plum and blackcurrant flavors that penetrate the inner mouth in this extraordinarily plush and fat wine. Bitter chocolate and a hint of vanilla complete the sensory attack. The back end is supported by firm but…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Full ruby-red. Youthful, perfumed nose hints at cherry, flowers, licorice and lead pencil. Dense, brooding and powerful, with superb depth and clarity of cherry, cassis, mineral and floral flavors. An aristocratic, backward, gripping Ornellaia that finishes with explosive length and building tannins. If the ’98 is feminine, this is distinctly masculine. Still an infant.

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good full medium red. Aromas of plum, smoked meat, iron and rose. Supple and broad, with a restrained sweetness to the flavors of plum, smoke and meat. Seems to gain in sweetness toward the back, finishing with good breadth and length.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Dullish ruby-red. Full-blown, exotic aromas of plum jam, roasted meat and leather, with a suggestion of tropical chocolate. Big, plush and full; a seamless wine that avoids coming off as flat. Finishes with ripe tannins and a lingering flavor of chocolate. I underrated this wine in barrel. Unusually fleshy for Beychevelle, which is not a…

Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2003 Beychevelle has a rather one-dimensional nose with vestiges of red fruit, singed leather and hung game (though I don’t find this bretty like some earlier vintages). The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, again, quite gamey and low in acidity. A bit Rhône-like towards the finish, this is a decent 2003 that is…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1996 Pichon-Baron now has a superior bouquet to the 1995. There is much better definition here, and the scents of blackberry, graphite, smoke and a touch of gravel are all very harmonious and focused – quintessential Pauillac. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and very fresh in the mouth. Hints of blood orange…