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Sonoma, Anderson Valley and Beyond: New Releases (Jan 2015)

The 2013 Pinot Noir Alberigi is a bit more structured and tannic than the Laguna, Radio Coteau’s other Russian River Pinot. Savory herbs, tobacco, smoke and game flesh out in a powerful, intense Pinot to enjoy over the next decade. The use of partial whole clusters (19%) adds considerable nuance.

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Léoville Las-Cases has a (typically) more introverted, tertiary, austere bouquet compared to the Léoville Barton. Despite coaxing it does not possess much lift – sullen, a wine with a Closed sign dangling on the front door. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, solid with a sweet core, nicely proportion but just…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Léoville Las-Cases has a backward nose with the unenviable task of following the Léoville Poyferré. But there is complexity here, more tertiary in style, with autumn leaves and cigar smoke infusing the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannins, fleshy to the degree that it disguises the backbone. Mouthfilling on the…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

Readers will have to be patient with the 2014 Léoville-las-Cases, as it is not likely to show well for a number of years. Tightly wound but also medium-bodied and classic in its construction, the 2014 is going to need quite a bit of time to come together. Léoville-las-Cases is so often a wine of power,…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby color. Superripe aromas of plum, mocha and graphite. Silky-sweet, deep and broad, with terrific concentration of currant and licorice flavors complicated by leather, herbs and pepper. Finishes with thoroughly ripe, broad tannins and noteworthy length and power. Costanzo says this wine needs another six months in bottle to gain in nuance.

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Reticent but pure aromas of peach and white flowers. Juicy, intense and precise, with a tight core of stone fruit and floral flavors and terrific stony cut for this cuvee In a distinctly delicate style for the year; impressively intense but not at all aggressive. This extremely suave wine will need extended cellaring.