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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Calon-Ségur has a classic Saint-Estèphe bouquet with pencil box and freshly tilled earth on the nose, beautifully defined if not with quite the same pedigree that François Millet imparts into the Grand Vin nowadays. (Less Merlot here than other examples.) The palate is medium-bodied, masculine in style, a little closed at first, strict…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good dark red. Musky, highly complex nose offers plum, blackcurrant, camphor, menthol, violet and lavender. Remarkably silky and fine-grained, combining outstanding subtle concentration and terrific inner-mouth energy. This very rich but classically dry Saint-Estephe finishes with lush, noble tannins and outstanding complexity. A great vintage for this estate, and a classic claret in a traditional…

Keller Excellence (Mar 2023)

Citrus zests, lavender, struck flint and crushed stone greet the nose, enticing a first sip that practically explodes in the mouth with its intense resonance and grip. Yet there is a certain sense of buoyancy and an openness to subtlety, as bittersweet floral perfume and nuttiness add to the wine’s compulsive appeal. The finish is…

Keller Excellence (Mar 2023)

Citrus zests, lavender, struck flint and crushed stone greet the nose, enticing a first sip that practically explodes in the mouth with its intense resonance and grip. Yet there is a certain sense of buoyancy and an openness to subtlety, as bittersweet floral perfume and nuttiness add to the wine’s compulsive appeal. The finish is…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1989 Château Margaux is old school on the nose with dark berry fruit, saddle leather, iodine and a touch of wild mint. It’s much more loose-knit than the 1990, which I personally prefer. The palate is well balanced with a sweet entry, not amazingly complex yet refined and delicate in the style of, say,…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2009 Brane-Cantenac was picked from September 22 to October 9 with a modest 13.4° alcohol. This has long been a great Margaux. It is very delineated and yet very generous on the bravura bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, crushed stone, cedar and a touch of mint. The palate is fresh and bursting with energy right…