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Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux was picked on 24 and 25 August after rain had lent more acidity and freshness. The pH is low at 3.10. It has a delightful bouquet with enticing scents of green apple, white peach and pressed flowers, conveying a sense of energy and playfulness. The palate is very…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The team at Château Margaux, like last year, decided not to dispatch a sample of the Pavillon Blanc, as they felt it would be too unstable. Trust that I will taste it when I can.

Champagne: The Last Frontier (Dec 2009)

The 2000 Brut Grand Vintage opens with boisterous, toasty bouquet. Initially a touch diffuse, the wine finds its balance and focus in the glass, showing good length and a polished finish. This is a tasty, accessible Champagne best enjoyed on the young side. The blend is 50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir and 16% Pinot Meunier….

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Good bright ruby-red. Rather backward nose hints at cassis, black cherry, shoe polish, graphite, minerals and spices. Sweet, broad and rich, but with enticing fresh minerality giving energy to the rather full-bodied middle palate. The wine’s cassis fruit is complicated by an almost decadent floral element. Finishes perfumed and very long, with wonderfully lush, supple,…

Champagne for Everyone (Nov 2000)

Pale peach skin color. Aromas of ginger apple, caramel, cinnamon and crystallized ginger. Full, round and concentrated; thick and strong in extract. Rather full dosage nicely leavened by firm acidity. Finishes tactile and long, with a note of honeyed apple. I began with a 90-point score for this wine but marked it down as it…

1970s Night at Babbo, New York (Jun 2009)

Perrier-Jouët’s 1976 Belle Epoque, from magnum, was one of the more advanced 1976 Champagnes of the night, but it was also remarkably complete and harmonious.