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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux has a lovely, open nose with more red than black fruit, cedar and undergrowth, touches of black pepper. Good vigour here. The palate is well balanced with sappy red fruit, though because of the vintage, it feels a little monotone and slightly underripe on the finish, doesn’t quite…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright red-ruby. Cassis, black cherry, violet, licorice and herbs on the perfumed nose. Then a bit tart and tough in the mouth, with black fruit and licorice flavors accented by pungent pepper and aromatic herb nuances. Slightly gritty tannins clash with strong acidity on the finish, giving the wine a lightly sour edge and…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Les Butteaux 1er Cru offers intensity similar to the Montmains, but this is a little more petrolly on the nose, which is beautifully defined and very focused, developing a faint nuttiness with aeration. The palate is well balanced and conveys a sense of energy on the entry. Saline to its core, this…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Petit Chablis offers light apple blossom and crisp citrus peel scents on the nose, pretty but not complex. The palate bursts with dewy green apples on the entry and razor-sharp acidity. Short and straight-to-the-point on the finish. This should drink well for 4–6 years.

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Moderately saturated medium color. Meaty, herbaceous nose with a suggestion of exotic fruits. Fruit shows a sweet/sour character, with a suggestion of stems and hints of prunes and stewed tomato. Seems disjointed today, soft despite the fact that the acidity sticks out: perhaps simply a case of lacking the buffering extract. No particular intensity or…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1977 Croft Vintage Port has a clear garnet core. The nose is ripe and attractive, but lacking the complexity of the 1977 Taylor’s: hints of cherry, brambly red-berried fruit, ginger and honey, though improving with time in glass as more blackberry leaf element begin to appear. The palate is sweet, ripe, very primordial considering…