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2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Inky purple. Powerful, deeply pitched aromas of singed plum, blackberry, licorice pastille and Indian spices, with an accent of candied flowers. Supple, broad and sweet , displaying intense black and blue fruit, licorice and cracked pepper flavors. The floral element comes back strong on the finish, which is firmed by smooth, slow-building tannins. Shows the…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(these vines are about 45 years old) Deep red-ruby. Captivating aromas of wild black raspberry, minerals and game, along with a saline note. Suave and fine-grained on entry, then at once saline and sweet in the middle, with lovely mounting mineral perfume toward the back. Offers a more pliant texture and silkier tannins than the…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Fonbadet makes good on the promise it showed last year, presenting a finely chiseled bouquet of blackberry, graphite and light sous-bois scents. Coy at first, it unfolds with confidence. The palate is very cohesive with well-judged natural acidity. There is plenty of coiled-up energy in this Fonbadet, but what really distinguishes it is…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Fonbadet is superb. Classically elegant and refined, the 2018 graces the palate with exquisite finesse right out of the gate. Red berry, floral, blood orange and minty flavors convey freshness as the 2018 opens in the glass. Bright acids perk up the nuanced, persistent finish. Readers won't find too many 2018s that are…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Les Gravières has maintained its opulent nose of oodles of boysenberry and plummy fruit at the expense of some delineation and terroir expression. The palate is powerful and dense with a powdery texture and grippy tannins. It has lost some of its sinew but I still find that the wood tannins crowd out…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Les Gravières is every bit as impressive as it was from barrel. Graphite, dried herbs, licorice, lavender and purple/black fruits are all laced together. The 2018 has shut down quite a bit after bottling. Today the acids and tannins are quite present. That won't be an issue in time, but it does mean…