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Sancerre’s Charm Offensive (Jul 2023)

If you’ve ever attended a classical concert, there’s a brief pause between movements of a symphony; in it, there’s a poised hush and a sense of crackling anticipation. The 2022 Monts Damnés reminds me of this hush. It is so very quiet, with a citrusy twinkle in its eye. Despite its initial delicacy and light…

Steenwold! South Africa: Ten Years On (Jul 2025)

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Franschhoek has a perfumed bouquet, very well defined with black fruit, cedar and wild mint, demonstrating more vigor than its peers, more youthfulness. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy black fruit, quite savory and gamey, pencil lead notes infusing the slightly austere and Médoc-like finish. A bit serious perhaps? Tasted blind…

White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Very pale yellow-green color. Nose dominated by lime, crushed stone and steely minerality. Densely packed and almost painfully dry, with taut, penetrating citrus and mineral flavors showing more energy than flesh today. This ungiving grand cru has plenty of depth and flavor intensity but is an infant today. The stony, austere finish is like touching…

Northern Rhône 2023: The Art of Perseverance (Jan 2025)

Perfumed and expressive, the 2022 Côte-Rôtie La Barbarine launches dried violet, rose petal, red plum, pencil shaving and white pepper aromas. Built around ripe tannins, the medium-bodied 2022 is an inviting La Barbarine that closes with lively energy on the savory aftertaste.

Santa Barbara Dreamin’… Part One & Part Two (Sep 2018)

A real head-turner, the 2015 Syrah Trouver l’Arène is every bit as compelling from bottle as it was from barrel. Rich, sumptuous and exquisitely layered, the 2015 possesses magnificent concentration as it builds in the glass. Inky dark blue/purplish berry fruit, graphite, smoke, licorice and spice are some of the many nuances that develop in…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2017 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules presents a soft, hushed expression of Pinot Noir. Dried orchard fruit, ginger, lemon confit and dried flowers. Perfumed, floral accents add a pretty flourish. Like all of the 2017s, the Ursules comes across as a bit light and best suited to relatively near-term drinking. No dosage. Disgorged: 2021.