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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Saint-Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru is adorned with an initially oily, almost petrolly nose that recedes to leave aromas of freshly cut lemon plus a subtle algae note. Well balanced with fine acidity, this En Remilly is very cohesive towards the finish with lingering lemon curd and orange rind. Very good length, this…

Keller Excellence (Mar 2023)

About half of this Riesling comes from Kirchspiel (representing most of the Keller’s vines in that site that aren’t close to seventy years old), with the rest mostly from Hubacker; but the other Westhofen crus are also marginally represented. Apple and white peach aromas are laced with basil and mint in an alluring aromatic display….

Vinous Table, A Wong, London, UK (Feb 2022)

We kicked off with two bottles from Klaus-Peter Keller. The 2011 Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewachs possesses a fragrant nose of orange blossom and even light mango scents, assiduously reduced, though that reduction ebbs with aeration. The utterly harmonious palate has superb weight and gravity, with veins of acacia honey furnishing the finish. This is…

Germany 2011 (Jan 2013)

Wild aromas of apricot, vanilla and fennel. The rich tropical fruit flavors are driven more by elegance than sheer depth, but the wine still possesses a fascinating complexity. Seductive, long finish features alluring spices. Refined and eminently drinkable.

Germany 2012 (Jan 2014)

Apricot pit, lemon oil, fennel and pine nuts on the nose. Crisp, fresh and delicate, offering good nerve, poise and balance. The salty minerality is elegant and persistent, with the finish perked up by penetrating spiciness. Refined and eminently drinkable.

Vinous Table, A Wong, London, UK (Feb 2022)

Riding shotgun, the 2011 Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Abtserde Riesling Grosses Gewachs is a completely different wine. This is razor-sharp on the Zen-like nose of Granny Smith apples, struck flint notes and citrus peel; you could almost describe it as uncompromising. The palate has a citric spine and tastes quite saline, with hints of orange peel. Harmonious,…