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Tuscany: New Releases from the Coast (Jul 2022)

The 2020 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia is a bright, vibrant red to drink now and over the next handful of years. Sweet red cherry, mint, cedar, tobacco and peppery notes lend energy. There’s terrific aromatic complexity to play off the rich, deep fruit. The 2020 is a terrific Le Volte. One of the recent evolutions here…

2019 Tuscany Preview (Mar 2022)

The 2020 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia is a bright, vibrant red to drink now and over the next handful of years. Sweet red cherry, mint, cedar, tobacco and peppery notes lend energy. There’s terrific aromatic complexity to play off the rich, deep fruit. The 2020 is a terrific Le Volte. One of the recent evolutions here…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Lafite-Rothschild has an attractive perfumed bouquet with touches of camphor infusing the blackberry and bilberry fruit. There is a mahogany bureau hint. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy opening. The sharp acidity slightly jars against the sweet candied black fruit, with blood orange and white pepper toward the mocha-tinged finish. It’s missing…

The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

The 2011 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts shows lovely cut and focus in its brilliant aromas and flavors. Citrus, lime, grapefruit and white flowers all jump from the glass. The Referts is distinguished by its mid-palate depth and volume, but I don’t quite find the pure finesse of the very best wines here. The competition is tough…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

Bright, pale yellow. Aromas of underripe pineapple, hazelnut and acacia flower. Tactile, supple and ripe, offering nicely concentrated peach flavor. Delivers a very good combination of volume from clay soil and bright acidity. The ripe acids carry the finish.

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Bright lemon-yellow color. Delicate, reticent aromas of crushed rock, lemon, lime, white pepper and menthol. Nicely concentrated, sappy wine with lovely intensity and texture–and classic Perrières mineral definition. The vibrant, dusty finish stains the palate.