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Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2004 Gruaud Larose is a vintage that I have not tasted since 2011. This example, from a half-bottle, shows a little under-ripeness compared to vintages of similar age, but the aromatics are redeemed by their freshness. Black fruit intermingle with tobacco and tar, just a hint of hickory and clove loitering in the background….

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Ruby-red. Expressive nose offers game, spice, tobacco, leather, underbrush, iron and exotic flowers. Supple and fine-grained, with currant and baked plum flavors complicated by chocolate and leather. A wine of moderate intensity and power for this property but rather suave. The cooler vintage character comes through on the finish, which features notes of raw currant…

Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

The 1970 is the most subtle of these Unicos, although I have tasted fresher examples. Delicate and perfumed throughout, the 1970 is laced with the essence of crushed flowers, tobacco, dried cherries and mint.

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1977 Taylor’s Vintage Port is initially tight and conservative on the nose: strawberry, baked cherry, tobacco and wild hedgerow notes emerging but remaining tight-lipped. This needs a good decant! The palate is endowed with depth and concentration, very well balanced with an attractive crispness. Perhaps you could argue that it is a linear and…

2007 and 2006 White Burgundies (Sep 2008)

Deep, brooding aromas of apricot, minerals, menthol and clove, with a suggestion of superripeness and outstanding complexity. Superconcentrated, sweet and powerful, with harmonious ripe acidity buffering the wine’s alcohol and extending its finish. This really saturates the palate with flavor.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 1998)

Very good deep red-ruby. Game, leather, currants and smoky oak on the nose. Supple, fairly dense fruit supported by sound acids. But with a bit less flesh and extract than the two subsequent vintages, the tannins give this wine a slightly more aggressive finish. Still needs a few months to recover from the bottling.