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Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Lafite-Rothschild is the best of the triumvirate that ended the decade. Another bottle vindicates that view. It shows an intense bouquet with graphite-tinged black fruit mixed with cedar aromatics that seem to effortlessly cruise as Lafite is wont to do. The palate is beautifully balanced and blossoms in the glass. The 1988 has…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Cheval Blanc boasts stunning power and a vertical, imposing sense of structure that is quite rare in this vintage. Dark and almost brooding in style, the Cheval is a rare 2012 that absolutely demands cellaring. Smoke, tobacco, incense and dark spices open up with time, but the 2012 is a reticent, tannic wine…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(54% merlot and 46% cabernet franc): Good full ruby-red. Expressive, nuanced nose offers red cherry, strawberry, minerals and a hint of violet. Sweet and round on entry, then increasingly austere toward the back, with peppery and minty elements lifting the dark cherry and cassis flavors. I noticed some bottle variation with my samples on the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Cheval Blanc has a lovely bouquet with raspberry coulis, hints of marmalade and just a touch of espresso, nicely detailed though not intense. The palate is medium-bodied with a strict entry. This is quite backward and tight, lightly spiced with a touch of sour cherry and cracked black pepper on the finish. This…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 2003 La Mission Haut-Brion is one of the few examples of this infamous vintage that has improved in bottle, though it’s still far from a first- or even second-tier La Mission. My most recent bottle displays all the tropes of that hot summer: black cherries, fig, singed leather and cooked meats. It does not…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Medium red-ruby. Raspberry, smoked meat and truffle on the nose, with a slightly liqueur-like ripeness. Dense, fat and seamless; unusually soft and lush for a young La Mission, with compelling sweetness. But there are also huge, ripe tannins underneath. Finishes very sweet, suave and long.