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1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Fabulous smoky, roasted, black fruit and tobacco nose, with a sappy urgency. Like liquid velvet in the mouth; gives a saline impression of extract. Very fresh and bright, with uncanny sweetness. Explosive finishing fruit buries the uncommonly fine tannins. One of the very few ’94s that truly stains the palate.

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Good deep red. Thoroughly ripe aromas of redcurrant, Cuban tobacco and chestnut. Lovely purity and delineation of flavor; lively and intense. Finishes with ripe, very fine tannins and impressive persistence. The finish still hints at youthful austerity. A star of the vintage.

Vinous Table: The River Café, London, UK (Oct 2021)

The 1998 Palmer showed extremely well. Featuring blackberry, cedar and a touch of black olive on the nose, this has evolved a little since I last tasted it, yet it remains wonderfully defined. The palate is supple and concentrated, with touches of clove and black pepper infusing the black fruit, and gentle grip on the…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Deep ruby-red. Dark berries, roasted nuts, mocha, espresso and bitter chocolate on the nose. Very concentrated and bright, with the flavors framed by firm tannic spine. Showing a bit more grip today than the ’99, but the ’99 may have more sweetness and density and possesses the stuffing to benefit from the elevage.

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Full-blown aromas of caramel, toffee, honey, white chocolate and damp earth; slightly Tokaj-like. Hugely concentrated and layered in the mouth; extraordinary sweetness cut by harmonious acidity. As with the best vintages of Yquem, the finish goes on for a minute or more. Stains, and stuns, the palate. A huge wine, surprisingly extravagant on the nose…

Vertical Tasting of Château Trotanoy (Mar 2012)

(95% merlot and 5% cabernet franc; 3.72 pH; IPT 71; 13.5% alcohol): Bright ruby-red with a hint of garnet at the rim. Knockout deep, nuanced nose of blackcurrant, red cherry, violets and truffle. Supple, broad and full in the mouth, with smoky blackberry, caramel and spicy pepper flavors. The finish is long and silky, with…