Archives: Product Reviews

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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2015 Batailley put in a querulous showing at the blind Southwold tasting, so I asked for another bottle at the property. It has a well-defined bouquet, although I am still seeking more cohesion and terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, fine acidity and plenty of cedar-infused black fruit. There remains some…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2015 Batailley put in a querulous showing at the blind Southwold tasting, so I asked for another bottle at the property. It has a well-defined bouquet, although I am still seeking more cohesion and terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, fine acidity and plenty of cedar-infused black fruit. There remains some…

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2017 Barolo is gracious, perfumed and very nicely lifted. An effusive, floral bouquet opens first, followed by a rush of red berry fruit. Nervous, a bit wiry at this stage, the 2017 is going to need at least a few years to fully open, but all the elements are in place to allow that…

2016 Barolo: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2020)

Maria Teresa Mascarello made one of the wines of the vintage in 2016. Her 2016 Barolo is soft and sensual, but also quite hushed – as many wines are in this vintage in the early going. Medium in body with silky tannins and exceptional balance, the 2016 has so much to offer, but it is…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1966 Taylor’s Vintage Port is a hugely overlooked Port. The bouquet is typical 1966 and oddly mirrors a Left Bank Bordeaux: conservative and masculine, yet detailed and offering attractive scents of cigar box, mahogany bureau, sandalwood and ripe cherry. The palate is foursquare with wonderful structure, spicier and more vigorous than the 1963 with…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good medium red. Very ripe but fresh aromas of red fruits, menthol, coffee and licorice. Silky on entry, then solid in the middle and stuffed with redcurrant, black raspberry and dark chocolate flavors complicated by leather and spices. This seriously structured, complex 2009 shows little in the way of easy sweetness today and will need…