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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru came across a little backward and surly on the nose compared the the Vosne-Romanées despite coaxing. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine definition, taut and fresh with a well-defined finish. Here, I actually find more in the mouth than on the nose, at least at…

Further Inroads Into Burgundy 2020 (May 2022)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur 1er Cru has a perfumed, transparent bouquet with red cherries, crushed strawberry and light mineral scents. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit and fine acidity, with a sense of energy and tension on the finish. Enjoy this over the next 15-20 years.

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Le Marquis de Calon Ségur is a terrific second wine. Ample, bold and dramatic, the 2019 packs a huge punch. Black cherry, plum, new leather, graphite and incense build as this flamboyant, opulent Saint-Estèphe shows off its considerable allure. The 2019 is a big wine, but the 15.1% alcohol is not especially evident.

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Le Marquis de Calon Ségur does not quite possess the complexity of the 2019 Capbern on the nose, more red fruit here, earthier in style. The palate is medium-bodied with graphite infused black fruit, moderate depth, a touch of abrasiveness towards the finish that should be abraded with time. There is something uncompromising…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Le Marquis de Calon, matured in 25% new oak, sports an almost identical bouquet to the one I found out of barrel, featuring intense blackberry, iodine and pressed iris petals, albeit with more composure. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth, slightly lactic entry and fine acidity, maybe not quite as "crunchy" as…

Dive In: Cantenac Brown 1978-2018 (Oct 2022)

The 2000 Cantenac Brown is a vintage that I last tasted just after bottling. It has a rather splendid bouquet that has matured beautifully with raspberry preserve, wild strawberry, dark chocolate and hints of rose petal, a touch of liquorice developing with aeration. The palate is perhaps showing its age a bit more with ferrous…