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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1998 Trotanoy, poured from magnum, is ferociously backward on the nose. With black cherries, raspberry coulis, truffle and touches of iodine with aeration, this threatens to overwhelm the senses. The palate is a beast: huge concentration, uncompromising with massive weight; this is a Pomerol that says, “Bugger off and come back in a decade.”…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep medium ruby. Ineffable, vibrant aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, minerals, violet, bitter chocolate and mint. Dense, rich and mouthfilling, but still a bit youthfully monolithic. Subtle notes of torrefaction and mint add complexity to the dark berry flavors. A wine of great finesse and class, likely to develop very slowly in bottle. Drink between…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Montrose is spectacular. Bright, perfumed and vertically explosive, the 2005 possesses remarkable energy right out of the gate. In 2005, Montrose doesn’t quite have the heft that it can, but that actually works to its advantage. Readers will find a wine that marries elegance with power so well. Gravel, dried herb, lavender and…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2005 Montrose replicated previous showings of that formidable wine. The bouquet is backward and here exuding more black fruit than previous bottles, rendering it more akin to the 2010 Montrose. With aeration those telltale scents of pencil lead emerge, although this bottle shows a touch more brine. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin,…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

(13.2% alcohol) Good bright ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of plum, flint and nutty oak. Large-scaled, rich and explosive, offering impressive volume and a sensation of power. The ripeness here verges on syrupy and this lush, round wine may well need a decade to lose some of its baby fat and assume its adult shape. The…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a vintage that I was surprised to discover I had not tasted for a decade. Showing light bricking on the rim, it has an open nose of brambly red berry fruit intermixed with cola, sage and tobacco, the relative higher proportion of Merlot rendering a different Grand…