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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1979 Ducru-Beaucaillou, a vintage that I have not encountered before, has a light and innocuous bouquet, mint-tinged black fruit, quite herbal but actually better than some more revered vintages of the Eighties. The palate is medium-bodied with a herbal entry, moderate weight, rustic but showing less dryness on the finish that expected. It’s an…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Tertre-Rôteboeuf has Saint-Émilion blood pumping through its veins, although this 2017 has tones of Left Bank, subtle cigar box and smoke aromas infusing the tightly knit red fruit, a faint marine influence in the background. The palate is silky smooth on the entry with a fine line of acidity, quite savory in character…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Tertre-Rôteboeuf is once again one of the wines of the year. Deep, unctuous and concentrated, the 2017 is wonderfully rich from start to finish. Inky dark cherry, chocolate, licorice and cloves all open up in the glass. The 2017 is going to need a few years to soften, as the tannins are pretty…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

Bright red with a pale rim. The still-closed nose reluctantly releases aromas of red cherry, sweet spices, aromatic herbs and coffee. Dense, rich and fleshy, with ripe red cherry, tobacco and forest floor flavors given shape by harmonious acidity and smooth tannins. The very long, slightly chewy finish shows a peppery chocolatey persistence. This is…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Gruaud Larose is actually similar to the Talbot on the nose – unsurprisingly given their propinquity. Dark berry, rose petal, a touch of oyster shell and even a hint of eucalyptus that surfaces with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supper tannins; there is lovely balance and swagger, so pure and generous. It…

Cellar Favorites: 1945, 1966 & 1982 Gruaud Larose (Dec 2018)

The 1982 Gruaud Larose has long been one of my favourite Saint Julien wines from that vintage. From magnum, the exquisite bouquet of black fruit, leather and hints of game and antique bureau is fully mature yet vigorous and so joyful. The palate is medium-bodied, with fine tannins that have melted in recent years. Here,…