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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Giscours (Jan 2012)

(31.3 g/l dry extract; 13.6% alcohol): Bright red with an amber rim. Delicate nose hints at blackcurrant, dried herbs, cinnamon, cedar and loam. Clean and fresh in the mouth, with sneaky concentration to the floral red cherry and plum flavors complicated by graphite, tar and coffee. This is more concentrated and longer than the ’90…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru does not quite have the amplitude of Magnien’s Clos Saint-Denis, but it displays more vivacious red fruit, clarifying with aeration and eventually develops quite an ethereal quality. The palate is beautifully balanced with sappy red fruit laced with white pepper, sage and graphite notes. Superb structure on the…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has an intriguing nose. There is just a touch of reduction at first and the whole bunch element is more conspicuous here compared to the nascent 2019. Touches of brown spice, clove and freshly rolled tobacco accompany the black fruit. The palate has quite a lactic entry, a…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 1999 Dom Pérignon P2 is one of the most intriguing Champagnes I have tasted from Dom Pérignon in recent years. In fact, it was not included in a small vertical I tasted at the estate in March, but rather this is a bottle I tasted with friends in London. According to Chef de Caves…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2000 Dom Pérignon P2 is striking. More importantly, it is absolutely delicious right now. Baked apple tart, brioche, spice, vanillin, ripe pear and crushed rocks all flesh out. Creamy, layered and inviting, with soft, voluptuous curves, the 2000 offers a lot of sheer pleasure. Although, perhaps not quite as complex or structured as the…

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

The 2006 Brut Grand Millésime offers more near term appeal than many Gosset Champagnes as the flavors show a good amount of complexity, while the contours are nicely mellowed. Hazelnut, savory herbs, anise, mint and dried pear meld into the generous, inviting finish. The typical Gosset energy is nicely balanced by the weight and soft,…