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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Very strong mousse. Deep, yeasty aromas dominated by toffee, butterscotch and toast. Quite powerful but already harmonious, with real thickness of flavor and oily extract leavened by ripe acidity. Very fresh in the mouth, with very ripe hints of yellow fruits and strawberry complicated by leesy and toasty flavors in the background. A large-scaled, extremely…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1989 Lafite-Rothschild, a wine that I have had several times both from bottle and magnum, is a better wine than the 1990, although I wonder whether its best days are now behind it. There is noticeably more bricking on the rim compared directly with the succeeding vintage. I also notice a touch of VA…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Full-blown aromas of caramel, toffee, honey, white chocolate and damp earth; slightly Tokaj-like. Hugely concentrated and layered in the mouth; extraordinary sweetness cut by harmonious acidity. As with the best vintages of Yquem, the finish goes on for a minute or more. Stains, and stuns, the palate. A huge wine, surprisingly extravagant on the nose…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

My solitary encounter with the 1969 Yquem came during a memorable vertical organized by CEC Wines in London. It has a light floral nose with touches of orange peel, perhaps showing a little maderization. The palate cannot disguise the tricky growing season with its conspicuous lack of botrytis, yet as I remarked at the tasting,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Inky purple. Pretty aromas of ripe black cherry, cassis and truffle. Then dense and almost massive on the palate, with rich flavors of black plum, cassis and cocoa coating the palate. My enthusiasm was muted by a mouth-puckering tannic astringency. This big, full-bodied Pomerol might yet come around, but I doubt it will ever be…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

I once described the 2009 Le Gay as monumental and I have no reason to alter that view under these blind conditions. It has a tightly wound bouquet with blackberry, truffle, forest floor and light tobacco scents that gather momentum in the glass. Captivating. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very well poised with…