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To Paint A Picture: Kumeu River Chardonnay 2006-2017 (Feb 2019)

The 2006 Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay has a slightly subdued bouquet of beeswax and pressed yellow flower aromas. The lightly spiced palate is well balanced with a saline entry and a dab of orange zest toward the finish. Fine, but I would drink this sooner rather than later. Like the Hunting Hill, I find more verve…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good full red. Pure aromas of dark, wild raspberry, candied cherry, smoke, game and mint, all lifted by an ineffable floral perfume. Wonderfully rich, fat and voluminous, combining great sappy cut with an utterly spherical, silky texture (yes, my note says this is possible). The rising finish features great palate-staining length, a chewy impression of…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full red-ruby. Roasted, smoky aromas of blackberry, blueberry and licorice. Plush, dense and large-scaled; expands impressively in the mouth. Chocolatey-ripe but kept fresh by nicely integrated acidity. Offers lovely sweetness without going over the top. Finishes with big, dusty, horizontal tannins and lovely aromatic persistence. Offers extraordinary texture and depth of flavor for a wine…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Red-ruby. Highly aromatic nose of raspberry, redcurrant, graphite, licorice and cedar. Leanish, dry and classic, with firm acidity but less flesh than the ’96. Lovely traditionally made claret, with terrific finesse and grip. Still evolving. (A second bottle showed a somewhat leathery nose and came across as drier in the middle palate; it was not…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Full-blown aromas of caramel, toffee, honey, white chocolate and damp earth; slightly Tokaj-like. Hugely concentrated and layered in the mouth; extraordinary sweetness cut by harmonious acidity. As with the best vintages of Yquem, the finish goes on for a minute or more. Stains, and stuns, the palate. A huge wine, surprisingly extravagant on the nose…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a finely detailed bouquet with yellow flowers, orange pith and light crushed stone aromas. This is extremely well defined. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, taut and fresh with a very harmonious, gourmand-like finish. Lingering ginger notes on the finish complete this excellent Corton-Charlemagne.