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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Montrose has much more freshness than the 1983 tasted alongside. With blackberry, boysenberry, wilted iris flower, loam and clove, it’s pretty complex and certainly more complex than the Lafon Rochet. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, grippy tannins, powerful and burly. Firm tannins, this is serious and lacks a little flair and charm…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good medium-deep ruby-red. Superripe, roasted aromas of black raspberry, chocolate and licorice. Wonderfully dense, sweet and lush, with an early roundness rare for this wine. A monumental St. Estephe with almost confectionery sweetness. Wonderfully horizontal, palate-saturating wine with huge but thoroughly ripe, lush tannins. It’s hard to believe that a wine this rich and deep…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1986 Ducru-Beaucaillou has been variable over the years due to the roof taint. This one? Well, it is not offensive, but it is rather innocuous, anonymous for such a great Left Bank vintage, lacking delineation and intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, simple but balanced with a slightly tart finish. I would…

Vinous Table: Brat, London, UK (Aug 2018)

This bottle of 1986 Ducru Beaucaillou originates from the period when roof taint affected many bottles, but not all of them. Apparently, the château has a machine that can check to see if there is a taint in the remaining bottles or not. If so, the bottle is released. However, I have reservations about this…

A Beautiful Stay: Beau-Séjour Bécot 1970-2015 (Apr 2018)

The 2005 Beau-Séjour Bécot was picked between 27 September and 5 October. This has a gorgeous bouquet, probably the best that the Bécot family made up until that point. It brims over with redcurrant, cranberry and red plum, hints of rose petal and ripe Satsuma with the mineralité tucked in just underneath. The palate is…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good ruby-red. Very ripe but lively aromas of kirsch, licorice, bitter chocolate, nuts and violet. Dense and sweet but vibrant, with a medicinal reserve and terrific grip to the superripe fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. Wonderfully rich, pliant wine with late-arriving tannins and a terrific spine for a slow evolution in bottle. Much more tightly…