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2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Opaque ruby. Fresh cherry and boysenberry on the nose, with seductive floral and mineral qualities adding complexity. Becomes more pungent with air, picking up tobacco, spicecake and dried violet scents. Juicy dark fruit flavors spread across the palate, ending with good mineral snap. This is very intriguing, as well as quite young.

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Deep red-ruby; less saturated than the last few samples. Reduced, vinous nose hints at pungent wild red fruits, minerals, smoked meat and tobacco. Silky and fine-grained; boasts a spherical shape that few wines of this vintage-or any other-can match. This has a wonderfully suave palate feel and coats every square millimeter of the palate. The…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Full ruby-red. Pure, complex but restrained nose offers blackberry, black cherry, licorice, spices and black pepper. Wonderfully intense and vibrant, with a compellingly chewy texture and great thrust to the highly concentrated dark fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. The fine-grained tannins spread out to saturate the palate of this powerfully structured Volnay, with the wine’s…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

Recent vintages of the 2005 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru have left me not particularly impressed. In this era, the winemaking duties were undertaken by Benjamin Leroux; this magnum was bought by current winemaker Paul Zanetti. I just find it trying much too hard to make an impression. The aromas are bold and in…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Saturated ruby. Superripe but fresh aromas of black raspberry, licorice and spices, with a hint of more exotic fruits. Sweet but not quite jammy, with very rich and distinctly black fruit flavors complicated by spices and bitter chocolate. A Pommard of compelling depth and verve, with flavors mounting slowly and inexorably to take over the…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Branaire-Ducru is a gorgeous, super-expressive wine that captures all of the natural radiance of the year. Black cherry, leather, spice, cedar, tobacco and scorched earth envelop the palate, framed by silky tannins that give this supple Saint-Julien so much charm. The 2005 is a very easy wine to drink and enjoy today, but…