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2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good deep ruby-red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, licorice, tobacco, iron, minerals and flowers. Densely packed, juicy and floral if a bit youthfully musclebound; lovely minerality here. Finishes tight and long, with some oak yet to be absorbed. Today I don’t find this wine’s normal exuberance but then it’s in cuve today and in a…

Juxtapose With You: Pétrus, Lafleur & Le Pin (Feb 2018)

Tasted at the Pomerol Comparative Exploration tasting in London, the 2005 Le Pin has never quite lived up to the billing when compared to other vintages from Jacques Thienpont’s iconic Pomerol estate, yet that is begrudging what is still a gorgeous wine. It remains very youthful and limpid in colour. The bouquet is much more…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 55/45 blend of cabernet franc and merlot; 3.53 pH; 14.5% alcohol; reportedly from a crop level of just 26 hectoliters per hectare; a 67% selection for the grand vin Inky, glass-staining purple. The captivating nose offers very intense, pure aromas of dark plum, blackcurrant, balsamic coffee, bay leaf and violet. Supple and soft on…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Ausone has a rich, opulent, modern style bouquet with crème de cassis and blueberry aromas tinged with crushed violet. There is plenty of new oak here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a ton of blue and black fruit. It does not quite deliver the personality of its peers, although the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Deep, saturated ruby-red. Musky aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, coffee, violet, Christmas spices, minerals and exotic oak, complicated by graphite minerality. Boasts uncanny intensity, calcaire energy and power on the palate, but there’s also a deeply creamy texture brought by this superripe vintage. Boasts extraordinary inner-mouth aromatic character and finishes with great tannic spine….

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Cru, which is 100% de-stemmed, does not have quite the same complexity as the Les Reversées. Scents of dark plum and iodine emerge with time. The medium-bodied palate shows a grainy texture, very good depth and chalky tannin on the minerally finish. Fine, but not as charming or…