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Cellar Favorite: Three from Domaine Leflaive (Aug 2015)

A huge, almost overpowering Burgundy, the 2007 Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet possesses towering structure and imposing depth, with seemingly endless layers of texture that fill out its broad, ample frame. The flavors are naturally unevolved at this stage; instead what stands out is the wine’s explosive personality and overall intensity. This is a very strong showing from a…

2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)

Pale, green-tinged yellow. Pure aromas and flavors of lemon, lime and crushed stone. Wonderfully high-pitched in the mouth, with citrus peel and violet notes lifting the wine and giving it a magically light touch. Very precise Bienvenue with superb acidity and captivating leesy complexity.

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Pale yellow with green highlights. Deeper and leesier on the nose than the Bienvenues, with ripe peach and hazelnut aromas complicated by sexy reduction. Large-scaled and powerful but not heavy, and totally different in style from the Bienvenues. Thick, plump and adamantly dry, with harmonious acidity giving shape to the wine’s very ripe stone fruit…

Domaine Dujac Clos Saint-Denis 1970-2004 (Mar 2020)

The 2001 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru is slightly deeper than the 2002. This is more open on the nose, offering vivacious raspberry, wild strawberry, crushed stone and rose petal scents; a hint of iodine emerges with time. (Side by side, I actually prefer the focus and precision displayed by the 2000 Clos Saint-Denis.) The palate…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

Deep, bright red. Musky aromas of cherry, herbs, minerals and sweet oak. Smooth on entry, then tightly wound in the middle palate, with candied fruit flavors along with sexy new oak. Solidly tannic but also long and aromatic. Perhaps more typically slow to expand than the showier 2002. This, too, may ultimately merit a higher…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

(90% destemmed): Good deep red. Ethereal aromas of red berries, minerals and spicy oak. Juicy, spicy and penetrating, conveying a light touch and excellent energy to the flavors of red fruits, pepper, herbs and licorice. Finishes with firm, ripe tannins and a spicy perfume that leaves the mouth refreshed.