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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2011 Ducru-Beaucaillou was an early-picked vintage, 5-18 September, but has the same analysis as the 2009 and 2010 in terms of IPT. Matured in 90% new oak for 18 months, it has a very well defined bouquet with intense black fruit intermingling with dried herbs and liquorice; strangely, the 2011 is not unlike the…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Ducru-Beaucaillou has a focused nose, a melange of red and black fruit, sandalwood, orange rind and humidor, fine delineation, and it coheres in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant, well-defined with taut tannins, gaining more depth towards the finish that demonstrates admirable finesse and poise. This is a lovely Saint-Julien, unashamedly…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Medium red. Ripe aromas of smoky plum, redcurrant, mocha, tobacco and nutty oak. Rich, pliant and fruity, with ripe acids framing the raspberry and subtle game flavors and contributing to the impression of inner-mouth perfume. Offers good volume and a restrained sweetness. Finishes with dusty, serious tannins and very good length.

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

(14% alcohol) Medium red. Complex nose combines briary red and black fruits, mint, spices and fresh herbs. Juicy and fine, with enticing inner-mouth perfume. A very firm wine whose underlying flesh is currently dominated by its mineral spine. But finishes suave and long, with sweet tannins and very good freshness and grip.

2003 and 2002 White Burgundies (Sep 2004)

Pungent aromas of crushed stone and flowers, plus a suggestion of apricot. Penetrating, minerally and uncompromisingly dry; an elegantly styled, steely wine that could use a bit more flesh. Finishes very firm and youthful. From vines at the top of the Perrieres slope, which is not the best position in this cru, says Montille. The…

Focus on the Maconnais (Jan 2004)

(bottled in August of 2002) Superripe aromas of candied orange peel, honey, truffle and marzipan. Fat, lush, rich and mouthfilling but fairly dry. Still a bit youthfully aggressive but this very young wine boasts good inner-mouth energy and excellent length.