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The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright full ruby. Slightly stern aromas of cassis, graphite, licorice, incense and flowers. Then dense and penetrating, with terrific energy to the subtle dark fruit, licorice and mineral flavors. There’s a coolness to the fruit that makes this wine dramatically different from the Forts de Latour. Finishes with big, building tannins and a powerful sense…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2006 Latour shows some reduction on the nose, although it soon blows away to reveal pencil-shaving infused black fruit, wild hedgerow and light cassis aromas. The palate offers up a mixture of red and black fruit. This has a firm grip with an uncompromising backbone. Dense yet refined, it is refreshingly saline toward the…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Léoville Barton does not have the same vigour as the Poyferré ’90 and is hampered by a bit of brett. Tertiary in style, it offers scents of wild mint and light violet, though it needs more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, very malleable in texture, harmonious with an old-school, slightly…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Healthy pale yellow. Restrained aromas of fresh peach and flowers. A step up in energy and cut from the village Chassagne, showing more focus and penetration–not to mention floral lift–to its stone fruit flavors. Strong acidity here will require time to be absorbed. Winemaker Benoît Riffault opined that the Sauzet 2013s generally have more incisive…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Lynch Bages has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, cedar and graphite scents, very complex, extremely pure and seductive, yet the class is absolutely clear. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. There is a symmetry about this ’16 that is compelling. Impressive length and bewitching detail from start to finish. Tasted blind (twice)…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very good bright red-ruby color. Sappy, very floral nose hints at toasty oak. Sweet, supple. smooth and oaks in the mouth. A very consistent though fairly tannic wine without the grip or structure of the ’95. In fact, tasted after the ’95, this seemed much oakier and even a bit monolithic.