Archives: Product Reviews

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2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good bright red-ruby. Muskier and oakier on the nose today than the RSV, with darker fruit aromas complicated by smoky minerality and a whiff of cassis bud reduction. Sharply delineated but tightly wound and dominated by its structure. Conveys a rigorous impression of calcaire minerality but this will need a good decade of aging to…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2014 Echézeaux Les Loachausses Grand Cru seems to be moving into its secondary aromas, brown spices and leather infusing the red fruit. It’s a little rustic in style compared to recent vintages. The palate is soft on the entry, with dry tannins. The 2014 needs more freshness and fruité. It’s pretty austere. Elegant, but…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright medium red. Reticent but very pure aromas of red cherry, spices and tobacco. Offers a lovely silky texture for the vintage, showing as much earth and tobacco character as red fruits and flowers. Not a particularly sweet style but distinctly fleshy in the context of the vintage. Its substantial tongue-dusting tannins call for patience…

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

Deep, bright red. Subtle, pure nose offers black raspberry, black cherry, mint, menthol and a hint of citrus skin. Wonderfully silky and sweet but the black fruit flavors come off more savory than sugary owing to the wine’s strong limestone character. Finishes sappy, uncompromisingly dry and very long, with firm tannins and lovely mineral and…

White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Very pale yellow-green color. Nose dominated by lime, crushed stone and steely minerality. Densely packed and almost painfully dry, with taut, penetrating citrus and mineral flavors showing more energy than flesh today. This ungiving grand cru has plenty of depth and flavor intensity but is an infant today. The stony, austere finish is like touching…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2010 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is just a joy from start to finish. It has an alluring, open and crystalline bouquet that blossoms in the glass, vivacious red fruit, touches of damp undergrowth and spellbinding mineralité. Touches of shucked oyster shells develop with time. The palate is beautifully balanced with more depth…