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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Blackcurrant, plum, tobacco and black olive nose is more complex and serious than that of either of the foregoing vintages. Thick, grapey and concentrated; still quite primary. This shows the fat and depth of the ’96 vintage in the northern Medoc. Finishes long, with substantial tannins. Impressive.

Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)

The 1995 l’Eglise-Clinet is a wine that I have tasted many times, although probably the most interesting was when Denis Durantou poured a magnum against a bottle. One common trait throughout all the bottles is a delightful Provençal-tinged bouquet, hints of sage and wild fennel that percolate through the red berry fruit. There is power…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Superb deep ruby-red color. Tangy dark berries, smoke and roast coffee on the nose, plus a vaguely gamey, truffley element. Almost painfully intense and sappy today, but this very dense, very sweet wine is beginning to close down. A huge wine whose finishing fruit buries its substantial ripe tannins. Wow!

A Beautiful Stay: Beau-Séjour Bécot 1970-2015 (Apr 2018)

The 1995 Beau-Séjour Bécot was picked between 25 September and 5 October. It has a straight-laced bouquet with earthy red berry fruit, tobacco and a light touch of peppermint. The aromatics feel pinched and do not quite “flow” in the same manner as more recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with soft and rounded tannin,…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Bright red. Complex aromas of raspberry, smoke and pepper. Juicy and penetrating on the palate, but a bit lean following the bottling. Slightly dry tannins currently shorten the fruit, but I find this wine subtle and rather stylish.

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

1995 L’Evangile (aged in 42% new oak, a bit higher than average for this property): Deep ruby-purple color. Pristine, minerally, sappy, black and blue fruit nose, with a floral, violety cabernet franc aspect. Creamy-rich in the mouth, but clearly delineated and firmly structured; offers great depth of chocolatey fruit. Great persistence on the palate, with…