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Sicily: The Island Nation (Jun 2021)

As the 2018 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo blows off a bit of youthful reduction, an inviting bouquet forms, mixing violets and roses with hints of white pepper and dusty strawberry. This is seamlessly soft and polished with medium weight, ushering in floral-tinged red and hints of blue fruit which give way to sweet herbal notes….

Tuscany: New Releases from the Coast (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Ornellaia is one of the most elegant wines I have ever tasted here. All the elements are so well-balanced. Dark and racy, with fabulous class and pedigree to burn, the 2019 is superb from the very first taste. Dark plum, mocha, new leather, licorice and spice build over time, but it is the…

2019 Tuscany Preview (Mar 2022)

The 2019 Ornellaia is one of the most elegant wines I have ever tasted here. All the elements are so well-balanced. Dark and racy, with fabulous class and pedigree to burn, the 2019 is superb from the very first taste. Dark plum, mocha, new leather, licorice and spice build over time, but it is the…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has a delineated and tightly coiled nose with crushed stone-infused green apple, rather fresh considering the growing season, with hints of grass clipping. The palate is cohesive on the entry with a bitter lemon note that lends this Puligny tension; it’s fresh and saline with a cohesive and persistent…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru is more floral on the nose compared to the preceding Les Séchets. White flowers, dandelion and touches of orange zest develop in the glass, precise and finessed. The palate is structured with good grip and a slightly waxy texture, building beautifully toward a very persistent finish. Give this 2–3…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2008 Brut Rosé Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon explodes from the glass with a mesmerizing array of aromas, flavors and textures. Blood orange, cinnamon, mint and dried flowers. The 2008 is incredibly young, but it is also incredibly tempting. Patience will be rewarded. In the meantime, readers might enjoy adding a few bottles of the stellar…