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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2006 Haut-Bailly is a very capable Pessac-Léognan from an oft-overlooked vintage. This repeats its showing from a few months earlier with lovely blue and black fruits and violet aromas. Perhaps a mote of chimney soot here? The palate is medium-bodied with that slightly ferrous note and tobacco. This bottle is a touch creamier in…

The 2009 Red Burgundies (May 2011)

The 2009 Grands Echézeaux is a fresh, vibrant wine. Minerality takes center stage in this perfumed, sweet Burgundy. The clenched style calls for patience, but the wine’s potential seems quite high. The finish is vibrant and impeccably polished in every way. The Grands-Echézeaux is made from purchased wine. Not surprisingly, this is totally different in…

2009 Red Burgundy (Jan 2011)

Medium red. Reticent but pure aromas of crushed stone, flowers and tobacco. Fat, silky, pliant and broad; not quite as gripping as the Echezeaux but plush and suave. Here the silky tannins are more thoroughly covered by the wine’s sweet fruit. This really perfumes the mouth.

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Medium-deep ruby. Exotic, perfumed aromas of dark cherry, spicy plum, soy sauce and Oriental spices. Full and voluptuous on the palate, this boasts exceptionally ripe, decadent red cherry flavors lifted by soy sauce and cinnamon nuances. Very long and silky, with unbelievably fine-grained tannins. With its texture of liquid velvet, this should make a memorable…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Pétrus has a classic Pomerol nose, perhaps darker fruit than other vintages, blackberry and briary, a touch of truffle and minerals. I love the definition here, the cool restraint. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a fine bead of acidity, chalky and tensile with moderate depth. There is a sense of composure,…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Deep ruby-purple. Captivating aromas of blackberry, black cherry, flowers, licorice and Oriental spices are lifted by hints of white pepper and soy sauce. Rich and concentrated yet suave on entry, then sweet but with outstanding grip in the middle, with harmonious acidity providing terrific lift and definition to the multifaceted, opulent flavors of dark berries,…