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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gloria has a well defined, classic Saint-Julien bouquet with blackberry, forest floor, cedar and hints of mint coming through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. Not unlike Branaire-Ducru in style but with just a little more heft towards the grippy finish. This is a Gloria that I would broach over…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gloria is tightly wound on the nose with lifted blackberry, bilberry, brine and crushed stone aromas – very nicely focused with real vigour and vibrancy. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain but assertive tannin that frame the layers of toasty black fruit laced with brown spices and white pepper. There is real…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good deep ruby-red. Distinctive, oak-dominated aromas of crushed blackberry, cedar, tar and meat; distinctly Rioja-like. Then dry, penetrating and uncompromising, with strong berry flavor and somewhat tart-edged acidity. A rather skinny St. Julien that may put on weight in bottle. Finishes with dusty tannins and very good length. Seems far crisper than an early sample…

Lower Your Sails Again: Beychevelle 1905-2015 (Jan 2025)

The 1995 Beychevelle has never been one of my favorite vintages, inferior to the 2005 or 2015 that I juxtaposed at the table. Dark berry fruit, quite ferrous, is evidence of a little Brettanomyces. The palate is powerful and muscular, which is not really the Beychevelle style, and quite spicy towards the finish. Will it…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Deep ruby. Powerful, pungent aromas of kirsch, dark berries, smoky herbs and spicecake, with notes of black olive and tobacco coming on with air. Chewy, palate-staining dark fruit flavors are complicated by bitter chocolate, licorice and black cardamom. Acts like a 2005 today, with serious structure but also superb depth of powerful, densely packed fruit….

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022: Bring It On (Jun 2024)

The vibrant 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape bursts with pronounced spice box, menthol, tobacco, black plum, iodine, licorice, leather and crushed violets. Offering a vertical sensation on the full-bodied palate, the 2007 captures the ripeness and concentration of the vintage without veering into jamminess. The savory finish is energetic and long-lasting. This is a stunning Clos des Papes…