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Marquis d’Angerville’s Volnay Clos des Ducs: 1920-2017 (Oct 2019)

The Clos des Ducs Lutte Raisonnée, made from vines that were treated with phytosanitary products against oidium and mildew in spring: Aromas of strawberry, rose petal, smoke, leather and earth became increasingly perfumed with air. Intensely flavored and fresh; not especially fleshy but really stands out for its inner-mouth perfumed lift and dominant strawberry and…

Marquis d’Angerville: Volnay Clos des Ducs 1920-2010 (Dec 2016)

Harvested 5-8th September. A very accessible Ducs. Much lighter and less dense than the 2010 or 2009, but also much more approachable. Guillaume d’Angerville calls it “tender.” I call it useful – a wine to drink while waiting for the ‘05 and the ‘99 to come around. The Ducs minerality is here, along with enough…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(from vines planted in the 1960s; the crop level here was just 18 hectoliters per hectare): Good medium red. Very ripe aroma of chocolate-covered raspberry. Tactile and sweet, projecting strong cherry/berry fruit but a bit short on finesse. Finishes with substantial chewy, chocolatey-ripe tannins. Makes a satisfying mouthful already but this premier cru has the…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Volnay Clos des Angles 1er Cru comes from a vintage after which half the vineyard was uprooted due to the aged vines that were planted in the 1950s. It has quite an intense bouquet of blueberry and wild strawberry fruit, a little more precocious than the Les Fremiets. The pure, poised palate is…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2011 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has an assured and sensual bouquet with perfumed blackberry, raspberry and almost confit-like fruit. There is detail and harmony here, the fruit beautifully enmeshed with the oak. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a silver bead of acidity all bound up in a razor-sharp line of acidity….

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

One of the more accessible wines in the range, the 2011 Volnay Champans is round, succulent and beautifully expressive. I don’t quite see the pedigree of the very best wines here, but in exchange the Champans will drink well right out of the gate. The pure volume and resonance argues for a bright future.