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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

Though I have tasted the 1998 Haut-Bailly many times, this is the first time in magnum. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry and cassis. The violet element is a little stronger than I discerned on other bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of weight and density, powerful though almost pipped by the Pape…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Haut Bailly has been a great wine that coincided with the château’s acquisition by the late Bob Wilmers. It has a sublime bouquet with blackberry, boysenberry, crushed stone and hints of violet. After twenty years it is still so youthful. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly firm tannin at the beginning, plenty of…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Dark red. Plum, currant, tar, tobacco, smoke, cedar and minerals. Supple and dense, with excellent precision of crystallized red berry flavors thanks to ripe acids and firm minerality. Very dry, sophisticated finish is long and gripping. The merlot was even better in ’98 than in ’00, said Sanders, but in a different style.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Cos d’Estournel was picked from 22 September to 6 October and consists of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot. Apparently the property was very content with the merlot at the time. It has a modest bouquet that to be frank is surpassed by the 1988 at the moment, the older vintage possessing more…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Currant, black olive, minerals and currant leaf on the nose. Bright, pure and focused, with aromatic inner-mouth flavors of cedar and lead pencil. Austere but not dry. More fruity and less tannic than the ’96, but of roughly similar weight. Finishes firmly tannic, with sneaky persistence.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Good ruby-red color. Distinctly cool minty, floral nose hints at cabernet franc leafiness. Good texture and decent sweetness, but the slightly medicinal bitter cherry flavor shows a strong greenness and a dry edge, giving an impression of modest ripeness. Solid acid and tannin structure. Slight finishing dryness. Lacks charm.