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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright ruby. Aromas of dark berries, licorice, bitter chocolate and menthol, with a hint of leather. Densely packed, pliant and glossy, with strong acidity and an herbal element buffering the wine’s sweetness. The lightly herbal quality carries through on the long finish, which features dusty tannins and noteworthy energy. A very strong vintage for this…

Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2009 Beychevelle is very perfumed and floral on the nose with brambly red fruit loam, incense and mint. It’s well-defined and shows more pedigree than the 2005. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple entry, a fine bead of acidity and slightly grainy in texture. This has a touch of curry leaf towards the…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Inky purple. Floral aromas of black plum and graphite. Easygoing and fine-grained, with a distinctly cool quality to the blackberry, floral and mint flavors. Pliant in the middle palate but with cedar, floral and herbal notes providing very good lift. Its light touch and suave mouth feel make Beychevelle easy to recognize in a blind…

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Brilliant ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes spice-accented red and dark berry preserves, potpourri, pipe tobacco and vanilla, and violet and mineral accents emerge as the wine stretches out. Palate-staining blackberry, cherry-vanilla, cassis, fruitcake, mocha and candied licorice flavors show superb depth and clarity while hints of floral pastilles and Moroccan spices add complexity. Gains…

The 2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons at Age Ten (May 2022)

The 2011 Opus One is an elegant, lithe wine. Floral and savory aromatics lend freshness to this understated, classy Opus One. Sweet red berry fruit, dried herbs, blood orange and cinnamon lend notable complexity from start to finish. I imagine the 2011 will drink beautifully for another 10-15 years, maybe more. The 2011 has softened…

California’s North Coast (May 2014)

(14% alcohol): Deep ruby-red. Rather cool aromas of plum syrup, cocoa powder, licorice and fresh herbs. Spicier and leaner than the young 2012, with a strong impression of acidity and an herbal element giving a tart quality to the blackberry, graphite and leather flavors. Finishes brisk but a bit sour, with some spiky acidity and…