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The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

The 2011 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts shows lovely cut and focus in its brilliant aromas and flavors. Citrus, lime, grapefruit and white flowers all jump from the glass. The Referts is distinguished by its mid-palate depth and volume, but I don’t quite find the pure finesse of the very best wines here. The competition is tough…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

Bright, pale yellow. Aromas of underripe pineapple, hazelnut and acacia flower. Tactile, supple and ripe, offering nicely concentrated peach flavor. Delivers a very good combination of volume from clay soil and bright acidity. The ripe acids carry the finish.

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Bright lemon-yellow color. Delicate, reticent aromas of crushed rock, lemon, lime, white pepper and menthol. Nicely concentrated, sappy wine with lovely intensity and texture–and classic Perrières mineral definition. The vibrant, dusty finish stains the palate.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne 1er Cru comes from just under a single hectare of vines next to Blagny. It has quite a stern, austere bouquet at the moment, a little overshadowed by the Puligny Village. The palate is well balanced with light citrus lemon, white peach and lime notes on the entry, moderate weight…

White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Pale yellow. Aromas of stone fruits, apple, clove and flowers. Gentle, ripe and sweet, but with good inner-mouth tension to the flavors of peach and flowers. Already an appealing wine; in fact, I’d enjoy this in its youth. Very smooth on the back end. A delicious bottle, but I find it more evolved than the…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(a 71/29 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; aging in 80% new oak) Dark ruby. Sexy aromas of redcurrant, blackberry and cedar display more obvious ripe fruit than usual. A true Pauillac on the palate, with great power and precision to its black fruit, cedar, and balsamic underbrush flavors. Finishes dense and long, with slightly…