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Chianti Classico 2013 & 2012: The Luck of the Draw (Sep 2015)

Isole e Olena’s 2006 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, a wine that was originally produced for home consumption, turned out to be the drawing board for the Gran Selezione. Cherry jam, earthiness, spices, mocha, sweet herbs and French oak all meld together in the glass. The 2006 is marked by a slightly oxidative note in its…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1996 Château Margaux stands as one of the pinnacles during Paul Pontallier’s illustrious tenure. I remember it dazzling out of barrel, perhaps my first memory of tasting wine at that prenatal stage. It has retained the fabulous tension and freshness on the nose, every atom infused with mineralité, subtle pressed flower/violet scents unfurling with…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

Tasted numerous times, the 1985 Château Margaux probably doesn’t deserve to follow the 1982 and 1983 and should be considered in its own right. Sensual and pure on the nose, this offers gorgeous, pixelated red fruit blossoming in the glass with inkwell and violet hints. The palate is lace-like, refined and embroidered with a very…

Tuscany: New Releases from the Coast (Jul 2022)

The 2020 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia is a bright, vibrant red to drink now and over the next handful of years. Sweet red cherry, mint, cedar, tobacco and peppery notes lend energy. There’s terrific aromatic complexity to play off the rich, deep fruit. The 2020 is a terrific Le Volte. One of the recent evolutions here…

2019 Tuscany Preview (Mar 2022)

The 2020 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia is a bright, vibrant red to drink now and over the next handful of years. Sweet red cherry, mint, cedar, tobacco and peppery notes lend energy. There’s terrific aromatic complexity to play off the rich, deep fruit. The 2020 is a terrific Le Volte. One of the recent evolutions here…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Lafite-Rothschild has an attractive perfumed bouquet with touches of camphor infusing the blackberry and bilberry fruit. There is a mahogany bureau hint. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy opening. The sharp acidity slightly jars against the sweet candied black fruit, with blood orange and white pepper toward the mocha-tinged finish. It’s missing…