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Spain’s New Releases, Part 2: Triumphs and Travails (May 2017)

(a library release; it was previously reviewed in July 2009) Deep red. A complex, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes candied red fruits, pipe tobacco and potpourri, while peppery spice and smoke flourishes build as the wine opens up. Sweet, seamless and expansive on the palate, offering cherry liqueur, rose pastille and spicecake flavors and a touch…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Montrose has an engaging and complex bouquet with black fruit, a pencil box, pressed violet and warm earth scents, gaining intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with excellent tannins that frame the mineral-rich black fruit (in fact, this is one of the most mineral-laden 2014 Left Banks I tasted.) The oak is…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Montrose has an attractive bouquet, mainly red fruit, cedar and undergrowth, relatively fresh with satisfying “attack”. Plenty of energy here. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid black fruit, fine depth and a keen line of acidity with a sense of completeness and harmony on the finish. This has great promise. Excellent. Tasted blind…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1995 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years. This bottle showed well, even if it was pipped to the post by the 1995 Ducru-Beaucaillou on the night. It has a youthful bouquet with more red fruit than previous bottles, infused with freshly rolled tobacco and pencil box, crushed…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

What more needs to be said about the 1982 Latour? Tasted numerous times, this is the benchmark for the Left Bank. A heavenly nose of graphite-infused black fruit, so precise and focused, with an underlying seriousness that sets it apart from the other First Growths. The palate is utter class, regal and poised, with brilliant…

What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)

The 2009 Suduiraut, aged in 55% new oak, is surprisingly closed at first but it soon awakens with aeration and begins revving its motor. It has a divine bouquet with honey, chamomile, yellow flowers and nectarine, building layer upon layer. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous opening, a beautiful razor-sharp line of acidity that…