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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru comprises seven barrels (one-year-old) with 20% whole bunches. The nose presents notes of brambly red fruit with loam and hints of rose petals and sage – there is fine complexity here. The palate is very refined, with ample vibrant red fruit and a judicious dab of white pepper….

On the Cusp of Evolution: Amarone and Valpolicella (Apr 2022)

The darkly alluring 2016 La Poja seduces with masses of plum sauce, macerated cherries and dark chocolate with lavender tones. Its silken textures wash across the palate with mineral-tinged dark red berries and savory spices, as sweet tannins collect toward the close. A saturation of primary tart fruit concentration lasts on the senses for well…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Good medium red. Sexy, open-knit aromas of redcurrant, dried flowers, spices and tobacco, along with subtle earth tones. Fat, rich and full, showing more power than finesse today. This strongly soil-inflected wine finishes quite long but a bit youthfully aggressive, and will need considerable patience.

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Good medium red. Sexy, open-knit aromas of redcurrant, dried flowers, spices and tobacco, along with subtle earth tones. Fat, rich and full, showing more power than finesse today. This strongly soil-inflected wine finishes quite long but a bit youthfully aggressive, and will need considerable patience.

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Fresh red color. Sappy aromas of black cherry, licorice, pepper and brown spices. Juicy, penetrating and rather powerfully structured; comes across as drier than the above due to its mineral underpinning and strong acidity. Yet this seems less shocked by the March bottling than the Chambolle.

Cellar Favorite: 1971 Cantina Mascarello Barolo (Sep 2018)

The 1971 Barolo is a real thrill to taste and drink. Let me emphasize that second point. So often, wines like this are tasted among many other wines. On this night the two of us savor every last drop of the 1971. I have had very mixed results with the 1971, to the point I…