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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a slightly reduced bouquet that is difficult to read at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with muscular tannins, quite firm and masculine in style, and a grippy finish. I would like to see more elegance develop. Give this some time in bottle.

A Tale of Two Extremes: The 2020 Brunellos and 2019 Riservas (Nov 2024)

A gorgeous burst of crushed raspberries gives way to rhubarb, wilted violet and cedary spice as the highly expressive 2020 Brunello di Montalcino comes to life in the glass. This is velvety smooth, supple and sapid, with depths of ripe red berry fruits complemented by hints of clove and cinnamon as well as a nip…

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, a re-release from the winery, is just starting to enter an early plateau of maturity where the aromas show some signs of opening up. Sweet tobacco, cedar, mint, game and licorice give the 2006 a decidedly wild, almost feral feel, in both its flavors and structural profile.

Chateau Montelena Cabernet Estate: 1977-2010 (May 2019)

Dark red with ruby tones; not as deep as the ’05 or ’04. Very dark aromas of cassis, licorice and cocoa powder are complicated by exotic dusty spices and Provençal herbs. Suave, pure and mouthfilling, with its fine-grained dark berry and spice flavors broadening on the back half. Boasts a lovely balance of sweet and…

Gaja: Sorì San Lorenzo 1971-2011 (Nov 2014)

Gaja’s 1995 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo is potent and virile to the core. A modern-day version of the 1974, the 1995 hits the palate with a rush of fruit enveloped by firm, powerful tannins. The style is frank, direct and intense, with fabulous richness but also some elements of rusticity. The 1995 will drink well…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 1998)

Very reticent, somewhat claret-like nose hints at blueberry, plum syrup and dried flowers. The fattest and fullest of these ’95, but also the most backward. Has a powerful tannic structure but finishes with strong, sweet dark berry, mocha and oak flavors. This really blossomed with aeration and should do well in the cellar. This wine…