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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Meursault Les Tillets has a clean, well-defined bouquet with yellow plum, hazelnut and light waxy aromas developing in the glass. The palate is well balanced with orange rind and lemon zest on the entry. This is quite a phenolic Meursault, one that is well balanced with a complex finish befitting a vineyard like…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Bright, pale yellow. Subdued but pure aromas of grapefruit pith and soft citrus fruits. Shows a sappy sweetness and a sexy leesy nuance to its flavors of lemon zest, black pepper and sea breeze. Lovely intensity here, not to mention nice breadth and length and no hardness. In a rather cool style but this wine…

Close to the Edge: Chablis 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru has an introverted bouquet that demands coaxing, eventually offering wet pavement, limestone and light oyster shell aromas. The palate is well balanced with an appealing oily texture. Lime, orange pith, touches of menthol and brown spices form the midpalate. Good density and spiciness come through on the finish….

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is bright, intensely mineral and light on its feet. In 2018, the Preuses is especially airy, with a real sense of refinement coursing through its veins. White flowers, crushed rocks, white pepper, grapefruit and vibrant saline notes confer energy as the 2018 builds into an explosive, mineral finish….

Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

(100% made in cuve): Light-medium yellow. Ripe stone fruit aromas are a bit reduced today (this wine showed a more exuberant Riesling/Sauvignon Blanc character a year ago from tank). A sweet, plush fruit bomb in the mouth, with concentrated soft citrus and yellow orchard fruit flavors. This silky wine has real shoulders despite having been…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Mazures 1er Cru has a sense of steeliness on the reticent but focused nose; flinty aromas develop in the glass. The palate is fresh on the entry and perhaps a little richer than the aromatics suggest, delivering orange pith mixed with lychee and pineapple, offset by a fine line of acidity,…