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Keeping Everyone Happy: Southwold Bordeaux 2022

The 2022 Angélus has an understated nose, tightly wound black fruit, cedar and touches of pencil box. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, quite structured, perhaps with a little Cabernet Franc in the mix? Linear on the finish, you would not guess this to be from such a warm growing season. This really seems…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Cheval Blanc goes through phases. I have seen brilliant bottles and others that were slightly underwhelming. This is a fine example, although blind it clearly does not possess the sheer grandeur of the ’82 Lafleur, and is slightly more savoury thanks to the Cabernet Franc, with hints of meat juice and terracotta. Very…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Lafite-Rothschild is a gorgeous wine, but it is also very young. Readers lucky enough to own it will find a very classic, gracious Lafite-Rothschild that still needs a few years to be at its best. Bright red-toned fruit, crushed rocks, mint and licorice open first, followed by darker aromas and flavors that develop…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 700-$2,300) Bright medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black- and redcurrant, minerals, graphite, licorice and lavender. Wonderfully suave and seamless, but with great purity and precision of flavor and terrific inner-palate perfume and lift. This dances over every square millimeter of the palate. Almost painfully young today, with an impression of fresh acidity serving to…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2009 Dom Ruinart Rosé is a joyous, radiant Rosé, a Champagne that very much captures the personality of its vintage. Rich, ample and layered, the 2009 captivates all the senses with its heady, Pinot-driven personality. The blend includes about 15% still red Pinot, lower than the 20% that was once the norm but more…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Angélus contains 60% Cabernet Franc, the highest percentage ever, and also reflects an increasing use of wooden foudres (half the Cabernet Franc or 30% of the whole blend). It has a more understated bouquet compared to the bravura vintages of the last three years, demanding gentle coaxing to reveal scents of brambly black…